I always expect something special when I attend a NOZOMI ISHIGURO Haute Couture show. The 2014-15 Autumn/Winter collection, held at Laforet Museum Harajuku on March 15th, was the first exciting presentation in a long time.
In recent seasons, the brand has presented its collections on a standard runway, which felt lacking compared to the days when the brand rented out houseboats or exclusive clubs in Azabu Juban for its shows. But this time was different. Accompanied by Daisuke Fuwa's band, the Shibusa Shirazu Orchestra, the show presented the clothes in a "live" performance rather than a "show." There were no seats, and the audience was standing, resembling a live music venue. After the band members, wearing the brand's 2014-15 Autumn/Winter collection, lined up, the "runway live" began with a solo performance accompanied by a violin.
The clothes presented were all characteristic of the brand, featuring random yet intricate designs and transitions. Interesting items include bottoms that look like a combination of a skirt and pants, and a skirt with a double layered look, with a different fabric peeking through the slit. The rider's jacket, with a zipper from the cuff to the back yoke and all the way to the cuff, is a nostalgic piece seen in the early days.
The highlight of this collection is the pieces created by folding two pleats. The sleeves of the blouson are cute, hanging down like ribbons. There's also a funny hooded blouson with gargoyle-like horns. Both are made of thick fabric for volume.
The tailored jacket has a relaxed silhouette and can be turned inside out. The body, which can be switched from the facing, features ruffle tape for a gorgeous look. It was primarily worn by band members.
The long-haired blanket-like fabric, dyed marbled in red, black, and gray, is eye-catching. Used in a variety of ways, including blousons and skirts, and paired with fake blood lip makeup, it evokes a disturbing direction. Other fabrics used include jacquard, glitter, and check.
After singing, the live show ended with a shamanic performance by dancers wearing white makeup. I remembered Ishiguro's comment, "Did you enjoy it? A normal show wouldn't be fun."
