[LOOK] Fendi unveils Kim Jones' Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection

Jan 29, 2024
On January 25, 2024, at 2:30 pm (French time), FENDI unveiled the FENDI Spring/Summer 2024 Couture collection, designed by Artistic Director Kim Jones, Accessories Artistic Director Silvia Venturini Fendi, and Jewelry Artistic Director Delfina Delettrez Fendi.

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"I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld's futurism for Fendi," says Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear. "In this collection, the body, silhouettes within silhouettes, the figure and the craft of couture place humanism at the heart of the future. It is about structure and ornament, the two elements inextricably linked. I wanted to express precision and emotion at the same time."

Courtesy of FENDI
This season's couture collection continues the dialogue between poetry and reality. Eschewing "costume" in favor of pragmatism, the collection is a seamless synthesis, drawing on the exceptional craftsmanship of the Fendi ateliers, from embroiderers to tailors, pattern makers to leather artisans, dressmakers to fur-smiths. Fendi's approach to its couture wearers is to reaffirm their humanity, because they are not just something, but someone.

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From the simplicity of geometry to the pristine charm of crocodile, "human futurism" permeates the collection, connecting the constancies of the past to forge the present and the future. In this way, structure becomes decoration and decoration transforms into structure.

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The collection begins and ends with the new "Scatola" silhouette, meaning box. The precise geometric pattern cutting of the fleur-de-lis creates entirely new volumes that are both light and structured in fabrics like silk gazar. The tailleur follows the lines of the female body through rigorous cuts, while ergonomically enveloping the wearer using super kid mohair, a traditional men's tailoring fabric. Crafted from the finest cashmere and vicuña yarns, the ribbed dress is gracefully draped with a "Shibari" knotted harness, integral to the silhouette. Exercising an instinctive pull, supple crocodile permeates the entire collection, including clothing and accessories. Each of these different approaches is optimized for lightness, suppleness, and ease of movement, almost like a dance.

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In the intensively crafted embroideries, ornamentation and structure truly intertwine in the collection, appearing almost as the skin of the future. Most strikingly, the DNA of the natural and man-made worlds are intertwined and shredded within the embroideries, as in the new shapes of feather-like all-over fringe, which appear as if they were new species of fur. While organic in shape, the rigor and intricacy of hand embroidery creates ultra-lightweight, fluid contours that move effortlessly with the wearer.

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Last season, the idea of the "couture ensemble" extended to fine jewelry, but this collection sees fine jewelry enter the realm of "precious and practical objects." Jewelry Artistic Director Delfina Delettrez Fendi designed "Singular Vision," a luxury eyewear line crafted from 18K white gold and white diamonds, with measurements measured via a facial scan to create a custom-fit eyewear structure. They can be used as sunglasses, eyeglasses or decorative accessories.

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This concept of "precious objects" also extends to the collection's bags, with a series of bespoke "Baguette" bags. Echoing the materials of the clothing, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi's approach sees the "Baguette" bags, from nano to large, as luxurious and personal objects, in materials ranging from supple mink-lined crocodile to fringe and flowing embroidery.

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The runway featured the FENDI Gems Baguette bag, crafted with exquisite craftsmanship and precious materials, as well as the Mini Baguette bag, with 18K white gold hardware, a white diamond pavé-encrusted buckle and platinum-leaf crocodile leather.

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The show's soundtrack features music by composer Max Richter, and the music reflects Kim Jones's philosophy of "precision and emotion."

Courtesy of FENDI

Fendi Japan
TEL. 03 6748 6233
URL. www.fendi.com

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