Swiss watch brand TUDOR has unveiled the new Pelagos FXD, which will be released this month, paying homage to the TUDOR watches that supported the missions of U.S. Navy divers for decades. This collection explores the history and meticulous craftsmanship of this modern-day "MiliSub," featuring a fixed strap bar, titanium case, high-performance manufacture caliber, and a unidirectional rotating bezel capable of measuring elapsed time.
Courtesy of TUDOR
PELAGOS FXD
As early as the mid-50s, Tudor diver's watches were inspected by the US Navy and evaluated by various military teams. Officially adopted in 1958, the watch was purchased for issue to divers serving in various branches of the military. This model continues the spirit of the mission watches of this era. The name FXD, a reference to the extremely robust construction of the fixed strap bar on the case, alludes to this watch's background. This model redefines the classic "MilSub" (short for Military Submariner) as a high-performance, robust timepiece, utilizing modern technology. Its appearance is reminiscent of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7016 from the late 1960s. In addition to elements unique to the US military, such as fixed spring bars, it also incorporates details inspired by Tudor watches from other eras, such as the pointed crown guards seen on early Tudor Submariners.
Courtesy of TUDOR
TUDOR AND THE US NAVY
The US Navy has adopted Tudor diver's watches for decades, beginning in the late 1950s. Navy SEALs famously wore Tudors in service from their formation in 1962 through the late 1980s. Tudor's robust instruments have seen them in all manner of underwater missions, from underwater sabotage units to Seabees and Naval Diving School instructors. At Diving School, they taught trainees the fundamentals of scuba diving, and at submarine bases both at home and abroad, they partnered with underwater submarine mechanics. Furthermore, Tudor watches have been involved in the development of innovative underwater technologies beneath the surface of the world's oceans.
Courtesy of TUDOR
Yes, Tudor has supported the U.S. Navy as a supplier of mission watches for decades. The first edition of the "Underwater Demolition Team Handbook," published in 1965, features the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928 in a section on diver's watches. This handbook was an essential reference for new operatives as they learned underwater demolition procedures. In 1973, the U.S. Navy's Diving Manual listed the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7016 and 7021 as "Official Navy Approved" diving watches. The following year, in 1974, the National Stock Number System was introduced to manage and track the U.S. Department of Defense's supply system. Starting in 1978, under the code 6645-01-068-1088, supply officers could purchase and issue Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 9411, or later 76100, to eligible sailors or operatives in need of a reliable, Navy-approved diving watch. This code remained in the supplies catalog until 2004.
Courtesy of TUDOR
While military-issued watches are typically engraved with unique reference numbers, this was not the case for Tudor watches issued to the U.S. Navy. There was no uniform military marking system. These watches were either unmarked or engraved solely for unit inventory purposes. Complicating the situation was the existence of many different coding variants. Although it is officially recorded that a large number of Tudor watches, across multiple model numbers, were delivered to the U.S. Navy over several decades, many of these watches remain unmarked. As a result, it is extremely difficult for watch scholars today to determine the provenance of Tudor military-issued watches.
A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS
Originally developed in collaboration with active combat divers, the FXD case perfectly meets the unique specifications required for special missions. This is why it boasts functional features that set it apart within the TUDOR collection, such as the strap bar, which is fixed to the titanium case for greater robustness and reliability. This connecting lug shape is key to the model's distinctive silhouette. Another distinctive feature is the ergonomic unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 notches. The ceramic bezel insert with luminescent 60-minute graduations complies with the ISO standard 6425:2018 for diver's watches.
Courtesy of TUDOR
The design of the new Pelagos FXD is inspired by Tudor divers' watches worn by U.S. Navy personnel from the late 1960s to early 1980s. The watch is entirely black, featuring square-tipped "snowflake" hands and square hour markers, introduced in 1969 to maximize luminescence in the dark. Other features include a sandblasted ceramic insert and unidirectional rotating bezel with luminescent paint. The 42mm titanium case is fully satin-brushed, its matte finish limiting light reflections.
Courtesy of TUDOR
A FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE
US Navy divers have historically worn TUDOR watches on black or green fabric straps, primarily made from nylon. The two straps included with the Pelagos FXD are inspired by and expand on this military tradition of preferring straps over bracelets. The default strap is a green fabric strap with a red central line and a self-grip fastening system. An additional black rubber strap embossed with a textile motif is also included.
Courtesy of TUDOR
Tudor has been a pioneer in the use of fabric straps since 2010. Crafted on 19th-century looms by Julien Faure, a family-run business in Saint-Étienne, France for over 150 years, these straps offer a unique combination of quality and comfort. For the Pelagos FXD, Julien Faure and Tudor developed a new strap construction. A 22mm wide woven nylon ribbon with a red central stripe combines with a self-grip fastening system to create a comfortable fit for any wrist.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602
The Manufacture Caliber MT5602 powering the Pelagos FXD provides the hour, minute and seconds hands. Like all TUDOR manufacture calibers, its monobloc tungsten rotor is openworked and satin-finished with sandblasted details, while the bridges and mainplate feature alternating sandblasted and laser-etched surfaces.
Courtesy of TUDOR
Robust, durable, reliable and precise, this movement features a variable-inertia balance maintained by a traversing bridge fixed at two points. It also features an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and the MT5602 is Swiss Official Chronometer Certified. While this certification requires a deviation of -4 to +6 seconds per day in the movement, TUDOR has gone even further, achieving a deviation of -2 to +4 seconds per day in the assembled wristwatch.
Another notable feature is the power reserve of approximately 70 hours. This means that if you take your watch off on Friday night and put it on again on Monday morning, there's no need to wind it again.
Courtesy of TUDOR
THE TUDOR DIVERS' WATCH
The history of Tudor diver's watches dates back to 1954, with the birth of Reference 7922. Water resistant to 100 metres (330 feet), this model marks the beginning of a long line of Tudor Divers watches. A practical watch that embodies robustness, reliability and precision within reach – this is the essence of the Tudor philosophy. In the 70 years since its introduction, Tudor's diver's watches have continued to evolve, with each model receiving unanimous praise from professionals in the field, including the world's most renowned navies. With the launch of the original Pelagos FXD in 2021, Tudor continues to write its high-ocean story alongside the world's most prestigious navies.
Courtesy of TUDOR
THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every Tudor watch is assembled and fully tested to Tudor's high standards in the new Tudor Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new, state-of-the-art facility, combining watchmaking expertise with state-of-the-art production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after a three-year construction period. The Manufacture, decked out in Tudor Red, spans four floors and a total area of over 5,500 square meters, and is physically and visually connected to the adjacent Kenissi Manufacture, Tudor's movement production facility, which opened in 2016. Through its network of Tudor-owned subsidiaries and Kenissi, Tudor has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers. As a result, Tudor can now fully master the production of these critical components and guarantee their quality.
THE TUDOR GUARANTEE
Since the brand was founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, Tudor's vision for creating the perfect watch has remained unchanged: a never-ending pursuit of robustness, durability and precision. Based on this experience and confidence in the superior quality of its watches, Tudor offers a five-year warranty on all of its products. This warranty does not require watch registration or regular maintenance and is transferable. Tudor also recommends an overhaul approximately every 10 years, depending on usage and conditions.
TUDOR IS #BORNTODARE
In 2017, Tudor launched a new campaign under the slogan #BornToDare. This campaign reflects both the brand's history and what it stands for today. It tells the story of adventurers who have worn Tudor watches to achieve extraordinary feats on land, sea, air, and even on ice. It embodies the vision of founder Hans Wilsdorf, who created watches for those who endure extreme conditions and continue to challenge themselves. It is a testament to the unparalleled commitment to watchmaking that has made Tudor what it is today. Tudor innovation has always been at the forefront, and the #BornToDare spirit is embodied by our ambassadors, who are change-makers by choice.
Model details
Pelagos FXD
REFERENCE 25717KN
Courtesy of TUDOR
Courtesy of TUDOR
PRICE
540,100 yen (tax included)
CASE
42mm titanium case, 12.75mm thick, 52mm long, satin finish, fixed strap bar,
Steel case back
BEZEL
Titanium unidirectional rotating bezel, ceramic disc, 60-minute scale
WINDING CROWN
Titanium crown, engraved TUDOR shield logo
DIAL
Matte black
CRYSTAL
Sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS
Water resistant to 200m (660 ft)
STRAPS
22mm Self-grip fabric strap with a forest green finish and a red central stripe, or a black rubber strap embossed with a textile motif, with a titanium buckle.
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
Mechanical self-winding movement with bidirectional rotor
PRECISION
Certified Swiss Chronometer by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
FUNCTIONS
Central hour, minute and second hands
Stop-seconds function for precise time-setting
OSCILLATOR
Screw-set balance with variable inertia
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
TOTAL DIAMETER
31.8 mm
THICKNESS
6.5 mm
JEWELS
25 Jewels
POWER RESERVE
Approximately 70 hours
ABOUT TUDOR
Tudor is an award-winning Swiss watch brand offering mechanical timepieces with sophisticated style, undeniable reliability, and a unique value that exceeds its price. Tudor's origins date back to 1926, the year "The Tudor" was first registered by a Swiss watchmaker on behalf of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf. In 1946, he officially founded Montres Tudor SA, producing more accessible watches while maintaining the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality. Throughout its history, Tudor watches have been the choice of the most adventurous adventurers and seasoned professionals. The lineup includes iconic models such as the Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Tudor Royal, and since 2015, Tudor has also been offering mechanical manufacture calibres that are multifunctional and offer excellent performance.
Courtesy of TUDORPELAGOS FXD
As early as the mid-50s, Tudor diver's watches were inspected by the US Navy and evaluated by various military teams. Officially adopted in 1958, the watch was purchased for issue to divers serving in various branches of the military. This model continues the spirit of the mission watches of this era. The name FXD, a reference to the extremely robust construction of the fixed strap bar on the case, alludes to this watch's background. This model redefines the classic "MilSub" (short for Military Submariner) as a high-performance, robust timepiece, utilizing modern technology. Its appearance is reminiscent of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7016 from the late 1960s. In addition to elements unique to the US military, such as fixed spring bars, it also incorporates details inspired by Tudor watches from other eras, such as the pointed crown guards seen on early Tudor Submariners.
Courtesy of TUDORTUDOR AND THE US NAVY
The US Navy has adopted Tudor diver's watches for decades, beginning in the late 1950s. Navy SEALs famously wore Tudors in service from their formation in 1962 through the late 1980s. Tudor's robust instruments have seen them in all manner of underwater missions, from underwater sabotage units to Seabees and Naval Diving School instructors. At Diving School, they taught trainees the fundamentals of scuba diving, and at submarine bases both at home and abroad, they partnered with underwater submarine mechanics. Furthermore, Tudor watches have been involved in the development of innovative underwater technologies beneath the surface of the world's oceans.
Courtesy of TUDORYes, Tudor has supported the U.S. Navy as a supplier of mission watches for decades. The first edition of the "Underwater Demolition Team Handbook," published in 1965, features the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928 in a section on diver's watches. This handbook was an essential reference for new operatives as they learned underwater demolition procedures. In 1973, the U.S. Navy's Diving Manual listed the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7016 and 7021 as "Official Navy Approved" diving watches. The following year, in 1974, the National Stock Number System was introduced to manage and track the U.S. Department of Defense's supply system. Starting in 1978, under the code 6645-01-068-1088, supply officers could purchase and issue Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 9411, or later 76100, to eligible sailors or operatives in need of a reliable, Navy-approved diving watch. This code remained in the supplies catalog until 2004.
Courtesy of TUDORWhile military-issued watches are typically engraved with unique reference numbers, this was not the case for Tudor watches issued to the U.S. Navy. There was no uniform military marking system. These watches were either unmarked or engraved solely for unit inventory purposes. Complicating the situation was the existence of many different coding variants. Although it is officially recorded that a large number of Tudor watches, across multiple model numbers, were delivered to the U.S. Navy over several decades, many of these watches remain unmarked. As a result, it is extremely difficult for watch scholars today to determine the provenance of Tudor military-issued watches.
A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS
Originally developed in collaboration with active combat divers, the FXD case perfectly meets the unique specifications required for special missions. This is why it boasts functional features that set it apart within the TUDOR collection, such as the strap bar, which is fixed to the titanium case for greater robustness and reliability. This connecting lug shape is key to the model's distinctive silhouette. Another distinctive feature is the ergonomic unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 notches. The ceramic bezel insert with luminescent 60-minute graduations complies with the ISO standard 6425:2018 for diver's watches.
Courtesy of TUDORThe design of the new Pelagos FXD is inspired by Tudor divers' watches worn by U.S. Navy personnel from the late 1960s to early 1980s. The watch is entirely black, featuring square-tipped "snowflake" hands and square hour markers, introduced in 1969 to maximize luminescence in the dark. Other features include a sandblasted ceramic insert and unidirectional rotating bezel with luminescent paint. The 42mm titanium case is fully satin-brushed, its matte finish limiting light reflections.
Courtesy of TUDORA FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE
US Navy divers have historically worn TUDOR watches on black or green fabric straps, primarily made from nylon. The two straps included with the Pelagos FXD are inspired by and expand on this military tradition of preferring straps over bracelets. The default strap is a green fabric strap with a red central line and a self-grip fastening system. An additional black rubber strap embossed with a textile motif is also included.
Courtesy of TUDORTudor has been a pioneer in the use of fabric straps since 2010. Crafted on 19th-century looms by Julien Faure, a family-run business in Saint-Étienne, France for over 150 years, these straps offer a unique combination of quality and comfort. For the Pelagos FXD, Julien Faure and Tudor developed a new strap construction. A 22mm wide woven nylon ribbon with a red central stripe combines with a self-grip fastening system to create a comfortable fit for any wrist.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602
The Manufacture Caliber MT5602 powering the Pelagos FXD provides the hour, minute and seconds hands. Like all TUDOR manufacture calibers, its monobloc tungsten rotor is openworked and satin-finished with sandblasted details, while the bridges and mainplate feature alternating sandblasted and laser-etched surfaces.
Courtesy of TUDORRobust, durable, reliable and precise, this movement features a variable-inertia balance maintained by a traversing bridge fixed at two points. It also features an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and the MT5602 is Swiss Official Chronometer Certified. While this certification requires a deviation of -4 to +6 seconds per day in the movement, TUDOR has gone even further, achieving a deviation of -2 to +4 seconds per day in the assembled wristwatch.
Another notable feature is the power reserve of approximately 70 hours. This means that if you take your watch off on Friday night and put it on again on Monday morning, there's no need to wind it again.
Courtesy of TUDORTHE TUDOR DIVERS' WATCH
The history of Tudor diver's watches dates back to 1954, with the birth of Reference 7922. Water resistant to 100 metres (330 feet), this model marks the beginning of a long line of Tudor Divers watches. A practical watch that embodies robustness, reliability and precision within reach – this is the essence of the Tudor philosophy. In the 70 years since its introduction, Tudor's diver's watches have continued to evolve, with each model receiving unanimous praise from professionals in the field, including the world's most renowned navies. With the launch of the original Pelagos FXD in 2021, Tudor continues to write its high-ocean story alongside the world's most prestigious navies.
Courtesy of TUDORTHE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every Tudor watch is assembled and fully tested to Tudor's high standards in the new Tudor Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new, state-of-the-art facility, combining watchmaking expertise with state-of-the-art production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after a three-year construction period. The Manufacture, decked out in Tudor Red, spans four floors and a total area of over 5,500 square meters, and is physically and visually connected to the adjacent Kenissi Manufacture, Tudor's movement production facility, which opened in 2016. Through its network of Tudor-owned subsidiaries and Kenissi, Tudor has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers. As a result, Tudor can now fully master the production of these critical components and guarantee their quality.
THE TUDOR GUARANTEE
Since the brand was founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, Tudor's vision for creating the perfect watch has remained unchanged: a never-ending pursuit of robustness, durability and precision. Based on this experience and confidence in the superior quality of its watches, Tudor offers a five-year warranty on all of its products. This warranty does not require watch registration or regular maintenance and is transferable. Tudor also recommends an overhaul approximately every 10 years, depending on usage and conditions.
TUDOR IS #BORNTODARE
In 2017, Tudor launched a new campaign under the slogan #BornToDare. This campaign reflects both the brand's history and what it stands for today. It tells the story of adventurers who have worn Tudor watches to achieve extraordinary feats on land, sea, air, and even on ice. It embodies the vision of founder Hans Wilsdorf, who created watches for those who endure extreme conditions and continue to challenge themselves. It is a testament to the unparalleled commitment to watchmaking that has made Tudor what it is today. Tudor innovation has always been at the forefront, and the #BornToDare spirit is embodied by our ambassadors, who are change-makers by choice.
Model details
Pelagos FXD
REFERENCE 25717KN
Courtesy of TUDORCourtesy of TUDORPRICE
540,100 yen (tax included)
CASE
42mm titanium case, 12.75mm thick, 52mm long, satin finish, fixed strap bar,
Steel case back
BEZEL
Titanium unidirectional rotating bezel, ceramic disc, 60-minute scale
WINDING CROWN
Titanium crown, engraved TUDOR shield logo
DIAL
Matte black
CRYSTAL
Sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS
Water resistant to 200m (660 ft)
STRAPS
22mm Self-grip fabric strap with a forest green finish and a red central stripe, or a black rubber strap embossed with a textile motif, with a titanium buckle.
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
Mechanical self-winding movement with bidirectional rotor
PRECISION
Certified Swiss Chronometer by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
FUNCTIONS
Central hour, minute and second hands
Stop-seconds function for precise time-setting
OSCILLATOR
Screw-set balance with variable inertia
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
TOTAL DIAMETER
31.8 mm
THICKNESS
6.5 mm
JEWELS
25 Jewels
POWER RESERVE
Approximately 70 hours
ABOUT TUDOR
Tudor is an award-winning Swiss watch brand offering mechanical timepieces with sophisticated style, undeniable reliability, and a unique value that exceeds its price. Tudor's origins date back to 1926, the year "The Tudor" was first registered by a Swiss watchmaker on behalf of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf. In 1946, he officially founded Montres Tudor SA, producing more accessible watches while maintaining the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality. Throughout its history, Tudor watches have been the choice of the most adventurous adventurers and seasoned professionals. The lineup includes iconic models such as the Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Tudor Royal, and since 2015, Tudor has also been offering mechanical manufacture calibres that are multifunctional and offer excellent performance.
