A return to classic style with a clear technical look. Paul Smith's "PS" and Kiton founder's event at Pitti Uomo 91

Jan 20, 2017
The 91st Pitti Immagine Uomo (PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 91), which opened in Florence, Italy on January 10th, has now concluded its four-day run. Approximately 24,300 people visited this year's event, the world's largest men's fashion exhibition, featuring 1,220 brands (540 of which were international).

The theme for this year's event was "Pitti Dance Off." Dance was highlighted as a way to express personal style through contemporary fashion, with finger tat (a dance performed with the fingertips) used as the main visual, and dance performances were also held in various areas of the venue.


Paul Smith appears as a guest designer at Pitti for the first time in 24 years for his first PS presentation

Paul
Paul Smith appeared as a guest designer at Pitti for the first time since 1993

Also, as an official event, Paul Smith was invited as a guest designer at Pitti for the first time since 1993. He held the world's first presentation of his diffusion line "PS," which will be launched this spring. He performed parts of the collection, featuring an acrobatic dance team, set to songs by David Bowie, Prince, George Michael, and others. While incorporating themes such as cycling, one of the brand's design concepts, the show featured lightweight jackets and suits made from high-tech Cordura fabric, featuring waterproof, wrinkle-resistant features, all presented with Paul Smith's signature humor and entertainment value. The presentation reflected the current trend of a brand's DNA and lifestyle proposals, rather than the clothing itself.

The 2017-18 Fall/Winter trend for the Classico brand, which is featured in the main pavilion, featured prominent British traditional motifs such as argyle, houndstooth, checkered, herringbone, and fisherman patterns. Mixing and blending, centered on high-quality wool-blend materials like cashmere, baby alpaca, and mohair, was the key theme. Items emphasizing lightness and softness continued to be offered. The range of sportswear offerings also expanded, with high-tech materials used to differentiate the collection and sneakers and work boots becoming mainstream.


Brunello Cucinelli Presents Beige and Gray

BRUNELLO
Brunello Cucinelli 2017-18 Fall/Winter Collection

Soft corduroy items made from Sea Island cotton were the theme of Brunello Cucinelli's presentation. The styling, coordinated in beige and gray, created a fresh image. Garment-dyed shirts and new wool denim were also introduced, expressing the luxury and comfort lifestyle proposed by the Maison throughout its booth.


HERNO enhances its popular line with high-tech materials for enhanced functionality

HERNO
HERNO launches its "MAGMA" series for Fall/Winter 2017-18

HERNO, whose men's sales have been strong in Japan over the past few seasons, has announced a "5 denier" model, an even lighter version of the ultra-lightweight "7 denier" down jacket released two years ago. To commemorate the release of the 20 denier lightweight nylon down jacket 10 years ago, the anniversary model will be available in five colors. Other products include "MAGMA," a new technology down jacket made with laser-cut high-density nylon material bonded with ultrasound instead of heat, and the "Laminar" series, which is popular in Japan as high-spec urban mountain wear made with Gore-Tex, with the release of the Igloo line, a new material that is a lighter alternative to Gore-Tex. Many new products that appeal to functionality thanks to technological advances are being proposed.


New line from Altea aimed at millennials in an effort to develop new markets

ALTEA
Price-conscious new line announced by Altea

The classico brand is known for its traditional Italian manufacturing techniques and has grown from a specialized factory brand to a total brand, but with the maturation of the market and the prolonged recession in Italy and Europe, there are moves to formulate a new market strategy. Altea, a company that specializes in neckties and was founded in 1892, has expanded its market in recent seasons with knit jackets and other items, and has hired a Japanese designer who developed the T-jacket to launch a new line for the 2017-18 Fall/Winter season. The two lines, a jacket and a set, have been designed to reduce costs by eliminating interlining and lining and streamlining the manufacturing process, and are expected to sell for around 400 to 500 euros in Italy, according to Altea president Luca Sartori, "aiming for a price range that is accessible to the millennial generation."


The world of Ciro Paone, the legend who conquered the world from Naples

Kiton
Ciro Paone's special event, "TWO OR THREE THINGS I KNOW ABOUT CIRO"

As mentioned above, what stood out at this year's Pitti was that, as the global fashion market is moving towards lifestyle, there is a growing movement to reaffirm and re-appeal to the DNA of brands, rather than just proposing items and trends. The exhibition's official event was a special event titled "TWO OR THREE THINGS I KNOW ABOUT CIRO," dedicated to Ciro Paone, founder of Kiton and a key figure in the creation of the Italian fashion brand's current fashion system. The only clothing on display at the event was Kiton's signature superfine wool navy jacket, displayed in different sizes. Other sections of the exhibition included installations depicting Ciro's dining table, where fashion ideas were born, the smell of fabric being cut, steam from the iron, and a floor littered with fabric scraps, paying tribute to the life of this iconic Neapolitan fashion entrepreneur in a truly Florentine artistic style.

Angelo Flaccavento, who was in charge of art direction for the event, explained, "Exhibitions that only show clothes just because it's fashion have already lost their appeal. It's necessary to have fun showing the background as well." The final room, which was divided into six booths, featured an Italian flag made from Kiton fabric, and on the outdoor terrace, a sweet female voice was playing from a speaker calling out the name of the legend, who was a dandy and popular with women, adding a touch of humor to the visitors' hearts.

Text: Noda Tatsuya
野田達哉
  • Scenes from Pitti Uomo 91
  • A Pitti Uomo specialty: Pitti people in front of the main pavilion
  • Scenes from Pitti Uomo 91
  • Paul Smith participated as a guest designer at Pitti for the first time since 1993.
  • "PS" event announced with acrobatic performance
  • "PS" event announced with acrobatic performance
  • "PS" event announced with acrobatic performance
  • "PS" event announced with acrobatic performance
  • "PS" event announced with acrobatic performance
  • The Gigi Fall/Winter 2017-18 Collection
  • Brunello Cucinelli
  • Brunello Cucinelli's Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection
  • Brunello Cucinelli's Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection
  • Herno's "MAGMA" series will be launched in the fall/winter 2017-18 season.
  • Altea announces new price-conscious line
  • Luca Sartori, President of Altea
  • Ciro Paone's special event "TWO OR THREE THINGS I KNOW ABOUT CIRO"
  • Ciro Paone's special event "TWO OR THREE THINGS I KNOW ABOUT CIRO"
  • Angelo Flaccavento (right)
  • Dance events will also be held at the venue.
  • Ciro Paone's beloved Citroën Pallas was also on display.
  • Ciro Paone (left) at the reception venue
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