Fashion journalist Tatsuya Noda explores the current state of men's fashion and the trends of the next decade. 2020 Spring/Summer Men's Collection Summary Report Vol. 2 is the Pitti Uomo edition.

Credits to: AKAstudio - collective

Givenchy showcases a fusion of heritage and technology

Pitti Uomo, held every season between London and Milan, marked its 96th edition and was held for four days from June 12th to 16th at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The event came at a time when international trade fairs themselves are facing difficult circumstances worldwide. Everyone can predict a slowdown due to sluggish consumption across Europe and the brakes being put on economic policies in countries such as Germany and China. In fact, the number of visitors from Japan, Germany, the United States, the United Kingdom, Spain, and even local Italian buyers decreased by several percent. Despite this headwind, it was the special events that drew major buyers and press to the show. This time, Givenchy's men's fashion show, featuring its first-ever solo runway show, played a major role. The show, held at sunset in the vast gardens of Villa Palmieri on the hills of Florence, and the subsequent cocktail party were enough to draw fashion people to Florence.



Givenchy's men's show demonstrated an approach to the next decade that was in line with the Italian Classico brands exhibiting at Pitti Uomo. Those involved in luxury menswear would likely agree that there is no better stage than Pitti Uomo to showcase the brand's technologically advanced techniques and heritage, such as an anorak made from ultra-lightweight nylon bonded by a Korean textile manufacturer, a parka printed with wind-catching Gothic calligraphy, and sneakers in collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger.

Givenchy Men's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Givenchy
Givenchy Men's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Givenchy
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2020 Men's Collection
Credits to: Givenchy

MSGM and Marco de Vincenzo, the leaders of the next Milan

Among local Italian designers, MSGM returned to Pitti Uomo for the second time to present a triumphant show, with Marco de Vincenzo presenting his first men's collection. MSGM created a digital signage pool in the gymnasium and produced a collection that was well received by buyers, exquisitely sampling the latest men's market trends.

MSGM Men's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni
MSGM Men's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni
MSGM Spring/Summer 2020 Men's Collection
Credits to: Vanni Bassetti

Marco De Vicenzo, formerly of Fendi accessories, has already received acclaim in Milan for his joint show with the women's collection. He showcased a unique world through his beautiful cutting techniques. He presented a collection that is typical of an Italian designer and sets itself apart from street fashion, with ultra-high-waisted rigid denim pants, pink wide-leg pants paired with transparent shirts and shoes in the same color, and soft materials used.

Marco De Vicenzo Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni

Marco De Vicenzo Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni


From the A SHORT NOVEL ON MEN'S FASHION exhibition
© ADMIN Web

Undercover's 2018-19 Autumn/Winter collection on display

Sterling Ruby, which sells online


Also, LA-based contemporary artist Sterling Ruby, who has become known in the fashion scene after collaborating with Raf Simons, was a guest designer at Pitti Uomo this year, presenting his new brand "S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA." at a villa on the outskirts of Florence. Off-White's Virgil Abloh was also in attendance.

S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA. Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Vanni Bassetti
Virgil Abloh at the S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA. show
Credits to: Vanni Bassetti

S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA.2020 Spring/Summer Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni

S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA.2020 Spring/Summer Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni

S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA. Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credit to: Giovanni Giannoni
The "S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA." collection is centered around denim that has been subjected to various treatments. Items based on American workwear, such as bleaching, overdying, heat transfer printing, hand painting, and low-gauge hand-knitted sweaters, are deformed and reconstructed in an oversized style, using a DIY street style technique. After the show, the items went on sale immediately via e-commerce sites in various countries. This "see now, buy now" style is likely to become a standard for independent brands in the future, but this brand may also serve as a case study for how the coexistence of e-commerce buyers and brick-and-mortar buyers will affect trade shows.

KAWS, whose collaboration with Uniqlo sparked riots in China, is well-known in Japan, so many in the fashion industry feel it's "too late" to bring him to the table. However, street art culture, exemplified by graffiti, remains a treasure trove for high-end brands. Marketing using artists affiliated with the contemporary art market, such as Daniel Arsham, with whom Dior collaborated extensively this season, has the potential to become the foundation of the fashion business of the 2020s, replacing models and celebrities as in the past. The key to this is "unfading value."

Lenny Kravitz headlines the event,
A fashion spectacle celebrating the 90th anniversary of a local boutique

In a report from a year ago, I wrote an article titled, "Pitti Uomo turns into a festival," and this year's largest-scale finale of the official Pitti Uomo events was the 90th anniversary event of local select shop LUISA VIA ROMA.


Tickets were sold to the general public, and approximately 3,500 people gathered at a special venue set up in Piazzale Michelangelo. The show kicked off with Karl Lagerfeld and featured 90 looks from approximately 50 brands, including Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Valentino, Thom Browne, Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, and Vetements, making it the most gorgeous show in recent years. The finale, featuring a stunning lineup of top models including Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Eva Herzigova, Mariacarla Boscono, and Irina Shayk, was a highlight. Styling was by Carine Roitfeld.

Bella Hadid
Irina Shayk
Gigi Hadid
Mariacarla Boscono
While the news of the economic downturn feels hollow at Italian brand parties, the charm of Florence is that select shops host events on this scale.

After the show, Lenny Kravitz gave a passionate 40-minute live performance, walking down the runway stage singing towards the photographers, making it feel like a Pitti Uomo festival extravaganza. It reminded me of Virgil Abloh walking down the Louis Vuitton runway at the Grand Palais in Paris a year ago, hugging Kanye West and in tears, but the transformation of trade shows into festivals may also be a symbol of diversity.

Lenny Kravitz

China shines a spotlight on the Italian fashion world

"GUEST NATION 2019 CHINA"
The show was presented solely by PRONOUNCE, designed by Chinese designers Jun Zhou and Yushan Li. Currently based in Milan and Shanghai, they graduated from London College of Fashion, Marangoni and Saint Martins respectively, and debuted their brand in 2016. The collection featured hand-knitted items from Mongolia. The collection's boisterous creations, featuring bold cutwork in washed denim, mesh, photo prints, and faux leather, as well as Mao suits, hand-drawn motifs, and materials reminiscent of Chinese reliefs, exude youthful energy. The Jack Purcell collection, a collaboration with Converse, was also unveiled at the show.

Pro Naunce Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni
Pro Naunce Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Giovanni Giannoni
Pronaunce Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Credits to: Vanni Bassetti
Italy has declared its official support for China's Belt and Road Initiative, despite opposition from the EU. In June of this year, brands such as Fendi and Prada held fashion shows in Shanghai, clearly intending to revitalize China's sluggish economy by supporting young Chinese creators. For now, these efforts seem to be welcomed as a new light in the Italian fashion industry.


See Vol. 3: Exploring the Trends of Men's Fashion in the Next 10 Years
Return to Vol. 1: Exploring the Trends of Men's Fashion in the Next 10 Years


Text by Tatsuya Noda