Dior presented its 2023-2024 Winter Men's Collection at the Place de la Concorde in Paris on January 20th at 3pm (local time).

Courtesy of Dior|©Adrien Diran

"The cycle of a house, like the cycle of fashion itself, is one of regeneration and rejuvenation. The present and future always contain the past, and Dior is no exception. With this collection, I wanted to explore the rebirth of the house after Monsieur Dior's sudden death and the rejuvenation brought about by his successor, Yves Saint Laurent, through the imagery and themes of T.S. Eliot's "The Waste Land," while also drawing on literature. There, the old world meets the new, in a state of change and flux."

Kim Jones


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The Thames and the Seine. Ancient waters, always different and always the same, flow from country to city to sea, through renewal and rejuvenation. These two mighty rivers, flowing through London and Paris, with their meanings, contrasts, light and shadow, are both literary motifs for T.S. Eliot and living inspiration for Kim Jones, Creative Director of Dior Men's. In this living literary history, ancient landscapes unfold alongside modern cityscapes, intertwining time periods. The river's swirls and currents reflect the currents of fashion, including the winter collection, where change, movement, ease and fluidity are central themes. It also represents the dynamism sought by Yves Saint Laurent when he took the helm of Dior at just 21 years old, the youngest person in history to do so.

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65 years ago, on January 30, 1958, Yves Saint Laurent presented his debut collection for Dior, changing the world of fashion once again. Heavily influenced by this Spring/Summer 1958 collection, Kim Jones's Winter collection intertwines the history of men's fashion, fusing masculinity and femininity, where the traditions and materials of British tailoring meet haute couture tailoring.

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Each garment is imbued with movement, modernity, practicality, and ease, moving from excess to a fusion of formal and casual. Silhouettes are soft, rounded, and adaptable, while garments hybridize, transform, and are worn as desired. Though the collection is intricate and complex, it never feels overly elaborate; everything is imbued with an effortlessness.

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At times, clothes directly reference, transpose, or transform the archives. The sailor top from Yves Saint Laurent's "Marine" ensemble is loosely tailored in cavalry twill and can be transformed into a vertical fisherman's smock.

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Off-the-shoulder tailoring in "Acacia" brings a relaxed, effortless touch to masculine wool suiting, becoming part of a recurring series of new silhouettes and ensembles. Meanwhile, the "Passe-Partou" coat features a loosely tied neckline and open, zippered sleeves in slubby Donegal tweed. At the same time, traditional knitwear conventions are challenged by blending tailoring with a sculptural approach to styling and draping.

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Meanwhile, there were also some surprisingly innovative pieces, like 3D printed shoes and boots, and utilitarian outerwear typically suited to sailing, elevating the Maison's savoir-faire to a more contemporary level than ever before. Bags featured a pared-back, boxy structure, exuding discretion, elegance and precision, reflecting the modern simplicity sought by Yves Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Dior
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