LOEWE presented its Fall/Winter 2023 Men's collection on January 21st at the Paris Tennis Club.

Courtesy of LOEWE
Silhouettes molded, distorted, frozen. Drawn lines, carved creases.

Coats, trenches, cropped shearling coats, cardigans, crew necks, slim suits. Their statements. Oversized bags, rounded-toe boots and lace-ups. Shapes and their contents. The Puzzle Tote, a supple new addition to the Puzzle Bag.

Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
This interest in ancient techniques was born out of a dialogue with American artist Julian Nguyen (b. 1990). His use of copper and vellum substrates, combined with traditional media such as oil, tempera, gesso, encaustic paint, and silver brushstrokes, and his references to early Renaissance painting and science fiction, influenced the collection's material choices and iconography, promoting a reductionist practice.

Courtesy of LOEWE
Julian Nguyen created three artworks for LOEWE. Nikos, his model and muse, is portrayed with a devotional realism. The miniature portrait created for the invitation recalls Proud'hon's paintings of the Incarnation of Fate, while echoing the style of Nicholas Hilliard's Elizabethan portraits. Encrusted with hidden meanings, the Latin inscription "Ubi Amor, Ibi Oculus" is a phrase translated by Thomas Aquinas as "Where there is love there is sight."

At the show, Nikos's timeless, momentary form is projected as two large digital images. Captured in an intimate and personal setting, his body is inscribed with symbols celebrating the power of love.

Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE
Courtesy of LOEWE


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Artwork Credit
JULIEN NGUYEN, Ubi Amor, Ibi Oculus 2023
©Julien Nguyen, Courtesy Matthew Marks Gallery

JULIEN NGUYEN, Nikolaos Tying Tie at The Bristol Hotel 2023
©Julien Nguyen, Courtesy Matthew Marks Gallery