On the first day of Milan Men's Fashion Week, Diesel Black Gold took to the catwalk as the first brand to showcase its Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection. The theme of this season was "travel." We interviewed Creative Director Andreas Melbostad backstage at the show to find out more about the background to this universal theme that many designers and brands have taken up this season. Andreas Melbostad (A): I call it "New Tribe," and I picked up various motifs, cultures, tribes, and other things that interest me from all over the world. I was influenced by each ethnic group and created a collection through a global filter. I wanted to convey the current mood of fashion by mixing various cultures, including Native American, Scandinavian, African, Islamic, European, and Asian.


Diesel Black Gold 2018-19 Autumn/Winter Collection Backstage


Q: What specifically influenced you in terms of each ethnic culture?


A:I started my research with costumes (ethnic clothing) and also referred to archives from the 1980s. I draw inspiration from my own travel experiences, photography, movies, music, and more. I draw motifs from a wide variety of genres. I also wanted to ensure that the brand's biker and rocker culture complemented the craftsmanship of various ethnic cultures.


Q: I also saw many references to interior fabrics and design. It seems like there are many South American and Nordic motifs?


A:That's right. The carpet and rug patterns are inspired by Caribbean and Native American influences, as well as Scandinavian interiors and South American textiles. This dress mixes motifs from Afghanistan and Eastern European folk costumes. It's also influenced by Romanian peasant dresses and the costumes of Vietnamese ethnic minorities. Military leather jackets, bomber jackets, and pea coats are key pieces for the brand, but this time I combined them with a Navajo carpet pattern. The quilted pieces incorporate Eskimo spiritual elements. This knitwear has a Norwegian feel to it.





Q: I was also interested in the hippie-style items.


A:The embroidery on the denim is based on patterns from the traditional clothing of Syria and Palestine. The leather stitching and studs use techniques from Native American and Mexican artisans, and the bags, shoes, and accessories also feature fringes and buckles that reference traditional ethnic clothing.




Q: Are the fabrics you use original to each country?


A:They're not necessarily original, but this knitwear featuring traditional Peruvian motifs is made from alpaca. I wanted to give a new image by decorating Syrian and Pakistani embroidered motifs on materials like cotton canvas, suede, denim, and chambray.




Q: Are you using any high-tech materials?


A:Basically, the fabrics are mainly traditional materials like denim and chambray. We also use special fabrics like Navajo-patterned blankets and ikat jacquard. In any case, there are a lot of natural materials this season, so I wouldn't say we were conscious of using technical materials. Q: Last fall/winter's theme was "urban ninja," and influences from Japanese martial arts attire were evident. This time, however, it seemed like Japanese motifs weren't used much, was they? A: Now that you mention it, that's true. The only collaboration with Japan in this show was "Princess Mononoke" (laughs). Before the show even began, something like Japanese dialogue was played throughout the venue, and the show opened with the soundtrack from "Princess Mononoke." The show began in a mysterious atmosphere, and perhaps because the main women's collection was also being unveiled at the same time, it depicted a new world of Diesel Black Gold with the season's signature native patterns. The finale song was Gqom, a new house sound from South Africa. The great voyage, which began with "Princess Mononoke" and ended with Gqom, added a new spice of ethnic elements, and Andreas' expression seemed to flush a little.


Diesel Black Gold 2018-19 Fall/Winter Collection Show Finale

Text: Tatsuya Noda