On January 14th, Moschino presented its Fall/Winter 2018-19 men's collection and its Pre-Fall 2018 women's collection at Milan Fashion Week Men's. The theme of this collection was "Overt/Covert." It was a combination of the obvious (Overt) and the hidden (Covert), but the women's collection was thoroughly fetishized. Destroyed tailored suits, tuxedos, pants, white shirts, hoodies, etc., suspended by suspenders and garter belts. The inner layer was covered with a black PVC bodysuit and mask, and a wool coat with a cummerbund and overbra. The pinstripe worsted wool suit jacket was sexily destroyed, evoking a pin-up girl look. Punk and fetish items were presented in a bold palette of black, gray, and khaki, including coats and jackets with words like "HOT," "SPANK," "CHERRY," and "X-rated" pinned all over them with safety pins, mod parkas, and coats with large, enlarged safety pin motifs.

In response to this, Jeremy Scott, for men, poked fun at tailored pieces with his signature tongue-in-cheek style. Feathers were used to create a feminine hem on a tailored coat, and the front of a tuxedo coat was cut off, paired with PVC underpants and boots. By mixing masculine and feminine elements, he poked fun at the gender debate with suits featuring cut-out shoulders and suspenders, and one-shoulder pinstripe double-breasted jackets.

While the presentation was bizarre and radical, the photo-printed dresses in the second half, dresses and jackets based on MA—1, and patent leather coats were all incorporated into market-ready items, as expected.

For the finale, a duo of genderless models appeared wearing linked tandem tuxedos, bringing to a close the Moschino world that mixes opposites and sameness.


Text: Tatsuya Noda