The Never-Ending Path of Hermès [Men's Fall/Winter 2018-19]

Feb 1, 2018
Photo: Jean-François José
On January 20th, Hermès, designed by Véronique Nichanian, presented its Fall/Winter 2018-19 men's collection at the Hôtel de l'Artillerie, a building originally used as a Dominican monastery and a powder magazine for the French army, which will house Sciences Po from 2022. Bonfires were placed in the open space of the corridor, and models walked between them, echoing the collection's theme of "open air." The collection focused on warm, voluminous pieces designed for outdoor wear. In keeping with Hermès' 2018 theme, "Let's Play," the collection featured playful coordination, color combinations, and material usage that broke with conventional concepts. Natural hues, inspired by minerals, dominated the collection, with striking cobalt and green, along with beautiful accents like pink and purple. Layering, consisting of stand-up collar shirts layered over knitwear and coats or jackets, was the norm. Mouton was used for coats and riders to emphasize warmth, while leather, showcasing the House's sophisticated craftsmanship, was prominent. Some leather pieces featured motifs inlaid with brushed fibers, demonstrating the brand's ongoing commitment to incorporating new materials. The increasingly standard macro-herringbone technical material "Toile Bright" was used on jackets and vests, adding a unique sheen and texture to the collection.

The key motif of this season was the "Endless Road," a depiction of a highway passing through the mountains, seen on knitwear and bags. It seems to symbolize Véronique Nichanian's approach to design, which is to create clothes that are not consumed in just one season, but that have a lasting impact. This year also marks the 30th anniversary of Véronique Nichanian's appointment as artistic director, an extremely rare occurrence in today's ever-changing fashion industry. The image of this long journey overlaps with the "Endless Road," suggesting that the building of lasting relationships may be what makes the Hermès Maison unique.
Tomoaki Shimizu
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