Soloist's international debut astounds with delicate abstract pieces

In stark contrast to the undercover electronic soundtrack that began with Joy Division's "Atomospher," Soloist quietly began with classical acoustic music. All models were completely covered in masks and hoods. The dim lighting and dark, heavy atmosphere brought back memories of his first runway show in Tokyo in October.

Lightweight, high-density nylon fabrics dominated the show, creating a dark world of black, gray, and white. Lustrous materials reminiscent of essential materials, such as checked worsted suiting and silk, are combined with techniques and details like shirring, bondage, and belting to create a continuous, myriad of styles.



A jacket worn inside out on the back, a cocoon-shaped coat made from a disassembled sleeping bag, a generously-sized, meticulously handcrafted calfskin cape, sandals and five-finger socks, a bodysuit or a jacket and pants—deconstructed pieces with even the borders between them blurred, creating a unique world.

The second half of the show features an orange emergency bag made of nylon and abstract tailoring. The opposite theme of Undercover's show, "Disorder/Order," stripped the theme of its meaning, as if mocking our search for the dividing line between disorder and order. The finale featured music by Nine Inch Nails. Maskless models marched in emergency blanket ponchos printed with the song's title, "The Day The World Went Away." The grand finale featured The Rolling Stones' "The Last Time" (Editor's Note: The Andrew Oldham Orchestra/"The Rolling Stones Songbook"), complete with striking strings and bell sounds. All of Undercover's models, clad only in their first look off-white pleated maxi skirts, were topless. The soloists wore black skinny jeans and dickey shoes, creating a uniform look with armbands on their arms, as they walked back and forth down the long runway.





Similar to Undercover's joint women's show with Sacai held in Tokyo last October, it was an emotional sight to see two of Japan's most iconic brands, who had never previously shared the same stage, stepping together in unison.


Text: Tatsuya Noda