Undercover: Using Sportswear to Prove the Fact That Science Fiction Is Real
Their first look consisted of just a gray maxi pleated skirt and a soft, thin knit. With no announcements or brand signs on stage, it was a bit confusing as to which brand was first. (Editor's note: On the day of the show, stickers reading "Part 1 UNDERCOVER, Part 2 the Soloist." were placed on each seat, but in some cases they were taken away before the show began.) The following maxi skirt, hoodie, and checked, shrunken jacket set revealed that Undercover had taken the lead, and I was a little surprised. This is because Undercover had already presented a men's collection at the same exhibition in June 2009, and the order in which Soloist, presenting his first runway collection overseas, was the last to appear went against common sense and sensibilities. However, it was certainly a choice that was typical of both brands.
The collection mainly featured items made from natural materials with a soft, washed texture, mixed with kitschy and pop colors in items such as backpacks, crossbody bags, and rubber boots. Layering mountain jackets and down vests, and using a variety of techniques and processes, including washing and bold photo prints, to transform technical materials like high-density nylon and reflective materials into easily recognizable sportswear, create a wardrobe that exemplifies the Italian specialist manufacturer's urgent response to change. Items printed with "Human Error" and scenes from "2001: A Space Odyssey" were featured, and the finale featured a cynical robot walking in a spacesuit-like down jacket, leaving the audience to decipher the collection's theme of "Order/Disorder." "There is a warning about humans being controlled by machines, but we weren't trying to send a negative message," Jun Takahashi said backstage after the show, carefully answering questions from the foreign press. His calm demeanor, consistent with his unwavering commitment to his design sources since the start, evokes the depth and weight of his career, built on the Paris Fashion Week stage.
