CARVEN's Spring/Summer 2018 women's collection was unveiled on September 28th at the Jussieu campus of Université Paris VI. This marked the brand's first runway show since Serge Ruffieux took over as creative director. Befitting a new chapter in the brand's story, the collection featured urban everyday wear brimming with fresh femininity. The show kicked off with a sporty polo-style dress, followed by looks evoking an active mood, including quilted jackets, safari suits, and midi dresses reminiscent of updated workwear. Eye-catching features included airy, floating shapes and generously gathered waists. The unique silhouette was accentuated by the short, curvaceous front. While the overall impression was effortless, the calculated interplay of straight and curved lines created a lingering, architectural impression. Bottoms, crafted from a variety of materials including cotton, silk, and Indian chintz, were accentuated with pleats and asymmetrical hems, creating a fresh and delicate impression.

From the middle of the show, a color palette with a somewhat bittersweet feel—neo-green, lemon yellow, coral, and orange—was mixed with bold checks and geometric patterns that retained a hand-drawn texture, and medieval animal prints were also introduced. The elusive motifs, which could otherwise appear disjointed, were elevated into stylish accents by the commitment to a unified silhouette. The stitching and embroidery also subtly shone, as if to highlight Serge Ruffieux's delicate sensibility and the Maison's craftsmanship.

Hybrid sandals and moccasins made from leather and raffia adorned the feet. Many of the bags featured were realistic pieces that evoked the image of urban women, including classic leather bags with charms, shoulder bags with dangling fringes, and large tote bags with safari motifs. Looking back at the show, it seemed like a quiet start to the brand's ambitions. However, this refined modesty is precisely one of the great charms of the new Carven.