Dior presented its Cruise 2023 collection in Seville, Spain.
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior's Cruise 2023 collection was a journey of discovery and introspection. The locations chosen for the presentation served as magnificent backdrops for the looks that comprised the collection, reflecting the Maison's desire to pursue original collaborations that resonate with the House's history and draw inspiration from each region.
The icon of this collection is the female dancer Carmen Amaya, known as "La Capitana." Unconstrained by any rules, she embodied the very essence of flamenco. An original and revolutionary artist, she was the first flamenco dancer to wear men's clothing, combining strength and vulnerability through her art, embodying a rational and multifaceted femininity while expressing the soul of Spain.
From Christian Dior's "Bal Ágrave; Séville" dress from his Spring/Summer 1956 Haute Couture collection to the Plaza de España, built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition and representing Spain's rich and diverse culture, this collection blurs the boundaries between real and metaphorical places by revisiting the dress codes that inspire fashion. The chiaroscuro found in Goya's paintings and the evocative atmospheres expressed through the words of poet Federico García Lorca are the starting point of the creative process, blending elements of fascination, homage, interpretation, and recurrence. Among the many inspirations, the runway also featured a look evocative of the legendary Duchess of Alba, who rode horses with Jacqueline Kennedy, wearing a short jacket, high-waisted trousers and a wide-brimmed hat worn at an angle. Also featured were red and black, as well as the traditional Spanish mantilla veil. The numerous embroidered details adorning the gown of the statue of Our Lady of the Macarena Basilica also played a sacred ritual role in the choreography, creating a symbolic image. The iconic Manila shawl, meanwhile, tells the story and history of the community that created and wore it. The context of these nomadic pieces is evident in several creations, including men's pinstripe suits, suspender trousers, silk-lined waistcoats, white suits, Andalusian riding shorts, short jackets with Brandenburg closures, boleros with trim that further slim the silhouette, and sleeves that flare like capes. Shiny taffeta in red, yellow, ochre, and black is used in shimmering skirts, emblematic of both Dior and Spain, with carefully crafted volumes creating contrasts. Lace takes on various shapes, and the Bar jacket is presented in black velvet embroidered with various gold threads.
In the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the show was an event where emotion and intention collided. The collection conveyed the idea that fashion is about both the everyday and the extraordinary, and the creations celebrated the diversity of visions of femininity.
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