
John Galliano's Spring/Summer 2015 Artisanal collection, his first since assuming the position of creative director of Maison Martin Margiela, was unveiled in London on January 12th. Artisanal is the equivalent of an haute couture collection. The first look was a mini dress crafted from paper, with miniature cars adorning the collar, flaps, hem, and other trimmings. This was followed by deconstructed garments, including a double-breasted jacket that draped down to the upper arms, a mini dress with the jacket's shape boldly attached to the front, a long dress that resembled a coat wrapped around the waist, and pieces with exposed sleeves and disproportionate hems. These pieces echo the creative methods previously employed by Margiela. Meanwhile, aristocratic pieces, a favorite of Galliano's, were featured, including bustiers, jackets with extremely cinched-in waists, and long coats with a cinched-in fit-and-flare silhouettes. Surreal motifs such as leopard prints visible under lace, trompe l'oeil dresses by Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo, and details featuring shell fragments and delicate beads are typical of Margiela. These are combined with Galliano's signature romanticism, creating a meeting of the two.
The second half of the show featured an androgynous black suit, followed by Galliano's signature red evening dress. It seemed as though the history of the house was about to be rewritten.



















