[LOOK] Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Collection

Mar 5, 2022
Dior has presented its Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection. An extension of the fashion pulse that has shaped Dior's history and been passed down through the generations, Maria Grazia Chiuri's collection pauses between the present and the future, resonating with these times and creating a rhythm of simultaneity and synchronicity.

©Kristen Pelou
"The Next Era*" is the title of a work created by Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi for Dior's Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show. Bettineschi's proposed installation evokes a gallery of large portraits of women from the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th centuries. The portraits' cutout and overlapping eyes raise questions about past and present assumptions about women. This perspective suggests the possibility of a different reading of art history. The "framework" of this show brings to life Maria Grazia Chiuri's concept of (re)constructing the performative relationship between the body and clothing from a technical and aesthetic perspective, an extension of a series of activities that combine form, savoir-faire, materials, and futuristic technologies.

©Brigitte Niedermair
Underneath Monsieur Dior's garments lies an extraordinary structural system. For this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri revisited the Bar jacket, reinterpreting the original model's construction with advanced technology developed by the D-Air lab**, which manages humidity on the body's surface and provides warmth when needed. The bodysuit, decorated with what appears to be an organic network of fluorescent arteries and veins, maintains a constant temperature.


The iconic pumps created by Roger Vivier for Dior are reinterpreted through their embroidery potential and become a prime example of exceptional craftsmanship, accentuated by a technical fabric yoke around the ankle. Worn alone or in combination, belts with multiple pockets and adjustable lace corsets complete many looks. Designed to be infinitely versatile, these pieces highlight new sartorial approaches, and even the iconic Lady Dior bag is reshaped to accommodate everyday essentials. Skirts are similarly reinterpreted, using fabrics borrowed from the men's wardrobe, such as grisaille. Cut long, short or pleated, they change shape depending on the viewing angle. With technical knitwear and embroidery on materials such as water-repellent, nylon and cashmere, the hybrid collection opens up unexpected possibilities. Paying homage to Christian Dior's rebellious spirit, a wall hanging in his greenhouse, seen in his famous portrait, is printed on an oversized coat, while couture gloves with a biker vibe add the finishing touch to the silhouettes.


This collection embodies an attempt to express the complexity of fashion: revisiting heritage to create the silhouettes of the future. A journey that gives shape to newly created pieces for a new world, another universe.


*The Next Era, art installation by Mariella Bettineschi.
**D-Air lab is an Italian start-up founded by Lino Dainese in 2015. Architect Silvia Dainese Gris led this special project for Dior.


Official tags: @DIOR @MariaGraziaChiuri
Hashtag: #DIOR #Dior #DiorAW22

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