On February 19th, the second day of London Fashion Week, Palmer Harding presented their Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection in a presentation format. Even in London, a city known for its wealth of young designers, the brand stands out as a distinctive presence. Launched in Spring/Summer 2012 by designer duo Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, the collection, comprised entirely of shirts, is meticulously tailored using traditional techniques. Last season, the brand gained national recognition when Prime Minister Theresa May wore one of their shirts at the London Fashion Week opening party. The graceful draping and skillful cutting create sensational silhouettes that are refreshing and light. However, this season, black was used as a key color, a departure from previous collections, creating a dark, gothic feel. Inspired by Levi Palmer's hometown of Texas, USA, the collection's design was inspired by the brand's roots. The area was home to many young people influenced by gothic rock music, known as "goths." He himself regularly wore all-black gothic styles as a teenager. With the Bauhaus band's "Bela Lugosi's Dead" (a song dedicated to actor Bela Lugosi, famous for his role as Dracula) playing in the background, the venue's pitch-black walls and sand created an eerie atmosphere. His first look featured a collarless shirt with a stretched neckline, draped over his head like a hood. A slitted silk skirt exuded a seductive sheen, and leather gloves added to the alluring aura. His next look featured a pale pink shirt, followed by an asymmetrical orange skirt. The vibrant colors, complemented by black, were like the morning sun shining through at night. The billowing hems of the shirt dress, linen coat, and long skirt created a relaxed and elegant look. The collection referenced a variety of silhouettes, including shirt dresses with the front of the sleeves cut to allow for free arm movement, off-the-shoulder and bell sleeves, and the shirt-bound look offered a variety that was far from boring.

The collection, which marked a major shift from their previous image, gave a sense of infinite possibilities within the constraints of the shirt. Its simplicity demands advanced techniques and excellent aesthetic sense, and they proved that they fully possessed both.