Saikyo miso is a traditional Kyoto miso. It's made through a short maturation process, and is characterized by a lower salt content and a stronger sweetness than regular red miso. Delicious on its own, it also makes a great base for dishes, and new pairings using Saikyo miso are being experimented with all over the place. In Kyoto, notable bakers are creating a succession of conceptual breads based on the theme of "Sakyo miso x bread." We visited a popular shop challenging itself with new flavors.

■ Karasuma Bakery "HANAKAGO"

The owner, Masatoshi Hanago, was originally a pastry chef. While he was the manager of a Kyoto patisserie, other restaurant owners would ask him to create bread that would suit their establishments. He gained a reputation and now makes bread for over 30 restaurants.

He mainly makes hard breads, but as he "responds to customer requests," he says his variety has expanded. His method of using domestic wheat and long fermentation with a small amount of yeast is something he developed on his own. His constant theme in bread-making is "bread that complements." "For example, 'I bought this wine,' or 'I'm going to make this dish today,' and pair bread with what you want to eat or drink that day. That's the kind of bread I want to make."

The origin of this idea was his training in Burgundy, France. People there don't settle for bread alone; they pair it with wine, cheese, food, or something else. "I love wine myself, and I really enjoyed that way of eating. I was determined to incorporate that style in Kyoto."

The two classic casseroles that Hanakago makes truly embody this idea. The "Sunset Caskurout" is a delicious combination of prosciutto and pecorino cheese, complemented by HANAKAGO's signature baguette, which has a sweet wheat aroma. It's inspired by the image of pairing it with your first drink at dusk. The "Night Caskurout" is a baguette made with French wheat, rich and aromatic, topped with salami and plenty of butter. Its bold flavor makes you crave a full-bodied red wine.

Now, the "enjoyment" element has been added to the theme of "compassion." They're enjoying delicious collaborations, such as curry bread made with curry from a curry specialty shop and yakisoba bread made with yakisoba from a teppanyaki restaurant. Saikyo Miso Cream Cheese Bread (183 yen) is one example. "I had a side dish at a favorite restaurant where they marinated cream cheese in Saikyo miso and grilled it until golden brown. It was so delicious! I borrowed that idea and applied it to bread." The bread, accented with black pepper, has a soft, rich flavor that spreads throughout the mouth and seems to go well with wine or sake. The bread that Hanagoro himself enjoys making brings joy and happiness to the visitor as well.


Interview cooperation /
HANAKAGO
TEL: 075-231-8945