Valentine's Day is finally here this weekend! It's fun to choose chocolate while thinking about the person you're giving it to. But if you can also suggest a pairing that will make the chocolate taste even more delicious, you'll surely have a memorable Valentine's Day!
So this time, we asked Anna Chikakoshi, owner sommelier of Champagne bar HACHI in Azabu-Juban, Tokyo, about the pairing of "SUSUMU KOYAMA'S CHOCOLOGY 2015-DESTINY-", created by Susumu Koyama of Pâtissier S. Koyama, which won the top prize at France's most prestigious chocolate competition, C.C.C., for the fifth consecutive year, with champagne.
Kokoshi's proposal for each of the four chocolates in "SUSUMU KOYAMA'S CHOCOLOGY 2015-DESTINY-" is to imagine a "fateful" marriage in which the acidity of the chocolate and the acidity of the champagne complement each other without overpowering each other's beautiful acidity, further enhancing each other's appeal.
"While it's fun to pair it with a somewhat niche, hard-to-find champagne, this time we also incorporated criteria that make it something that can be easily enjoyed within your everyday life and within your reach," says Kokoshi.
[1. Aruaco 72% & Cacao Fruit x PHILIPPONAT SUBLIME RESERVE 2002]
The first chocolate is a combination of cacao pulp, which is originally a fruit, and a ganache made from cacao grown by the Arhuaco people of Colombia. This chocolate has a striking acidity and a powerful cocoa aftertaste that creates a three-dimensional flavor. The champagne that goes well with this chocolate is PHILIPPONAT's "SUBLIME RESERVE 2002." This champagne is a Blanc de Blancs made from 100% Chardonnay. Although it is Sec (Dry), it doesn't feel heavy. "I wanted to preserve the pure white image of the cocoa fruit pulp. When you put the chocolate in your mouth and pair it with the aftertaste, the cocoa aftertaste expands and the volume increases. The outline of the chocolate stands out and the white fruit of the cocoa fruit comes to life."
【2. Chamomile & Double Berry x EGLY OURIET BRUT ROSE GRAND CRU】
The second is a chocolate made with floral Ecuadorian Arriba Nacional chocolate au Lait (50% cocoa), layered with a gentle ganache infused with the soft scent of chamomile and a ganache made with two types of berries, strawberry and red bean syrup.
The champagne paired with this chocolate is EGLY OURIET's rosé "BRUT ROSE GRAND CRU." A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, the oak flavor complements the umami and dashi flavors well, and is said to pair exceptionally well with Japanese food. "The chamomile's delicacy is not overpowered, yet its flavor stands up to the chocolate. When you take a sip of the champagne as the chocolate melts in your mouth, the volume of the chamomile and the rosée is further enhanced." Koyama also tasted this pairing and commented, "It feels like the astringency around the rosée pit resonates with the flavor of the champagne." [3. Hyuga Natsu Praline x RUINART BLANC DE BLANC] The third is a chocolate paired with a homemade praline noisette made with fresh Hyuga Natsu cherries from Miyazaki Prefecture, including the flesh, juice, fluffy skin, and seeds, and delicately caramelized hazelnuts from Piedmont. This refreshing chocolate is paired with RUINART's "BLANC DE BLANC," which "is the perfect match for the citrus nuances of champagne." RUINART, which first produced champagne in 1729, is the house's flagship champagne, and its "fresh aromas, reminiscent of freshly baked bread and citrus fruits, enhance the freshness and purity of the praline."
[4. Elderflower & Cassis x POMMERY WINTERTIME]
The fourth is a fragrant chocolate that combines cacao Chanchamayo, which has a sweet and mysterious aroma reminiscent of Peruvian dried plum and prune compote, with elderflower (elderflower) and ripe cassis. It is paired with POMMERRY's "WINTERTIME." The bottle's visual design also perfectly matches the image of the chocolate. We finish off with a 100% black grape Champagne, a rich and substantial experience. While this series offers seasonal flavors—spring, summer, fall, and winter—WINTERTIME boasts a substantial, full-bodied flavor. This 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier blend offers a robust structure and a rich, soft fruitiness. "Elderflower was one of the most difficult pairings. I wanted to create a pairing that would allow the elderflower flavor to shine through without clashing with the champagne. Cassis also has a strong acidity, so a youthful, refreshing champagne would overwhelm the chocolate. This is a pairing that favors the elderflower, enhancing the flavors of both," says Chikakoshi. A good champagne has a complex aroma and flavor, reminiscent of a mille-feuille. After allowing it to warm up a little after a certain amount of time, aromas and flavors that aren't apparent when sipped immediately from a chilled bottle will burst forth. Rather than enjoying the chocolate in one bite, it is recommended to first taste the chocolate on its own, then try numbers 1 to 4, then go back to number 1 and enjoy the pairing with champagne.
Why not enjoy a sophisticated moment where you can luxuriously savor the charm of chocolate, paired with champagne?
*This article is based on an event held at Champagne bar HACHI in Azabu-Juban, Tokyo, and has been written with the permission of HACHI and Escoyama.
