
On March 21st, during Amazon Fashion Week TOKYO 2017 A/W, matohu presented their 2017-18 Fall/Winter collection at Zojoji Temple in Minato Ward, Tokyo. This marks the 15th installment of their "Eyes of Japan" series, which examines Japanese aesthetics from a contemporary perspective. The theme for this collection was "iki" (life). Captivated by the view of Tokyo Tower towering among the skyscrapers and the vermilion Sanmon Gate, built over 400 years ago, the designers strongly desired a runway at Zojoji Temple. Unfortunately, due to rain on the day, the planned outdoor venue on the temple grounds was changed to a covered walkway, preventing the designers from fully utilizing the location, a place where the present and the past intersect. However, the worldview of "iki" that the matohu duo were hoping to convey was fully apparent. Designer Hiroyuki Horihata had the following to say about matohu's expression of "iki." "This time, before even thinking about fashion style, I began by reexamining what it means to live a cool life. 'Iki' is a uniquely Japanese word that cannot be translated into other words. I approached the creation and styling of the clothes with three pillars: refinement, spirit, and sexiness." He cited stripes as a textile that symbolizes 'iki', saying, "I used a special weaving technique to create stripes that are not uniform in width, but thin out and disappear, sometimes intersecting, to express 'meetings and partings.'" Other materials he worked on included a jacquard-woven striped pattern depicting green bamboo growing in a snowy bamboo forest, and a grass striped silk kimono fabric from Gosen, Niigata Prefecture. He also incorporated "ura-masari," a design that originated in the Edo period and uses color on the inside, which is not visible from the outside, and leather items to create a sense of sexiness. Many of the designs had relaxed lines based on subdued colors such as purple and blue, but all had a dignified presence, and the collection exuded a determined attitude towards "living."
The "Eyes of Japan" series will be completed in just a few more installments. Matohu (Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi)'s efforts to unearth tradition and reinterpret it in their own style have become increasingly sharp, giving the impression of a powerful path.














































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