Shinsuke Morishita founded his own brand, LAMARCK, in 2011 after graduating from Bunka Fashion Graduate University. He has been participating in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo since the 2013-14 Autumn/Winter season. Based on the brand's concept of "progressive evolution," he creates clothes with a focus on materials and beautiful tailoring, making him a young designer I'm personally keeping an eye on in Tokyo. His 2014-15 Autumn/Winter collection, unveiled on March 17, was themed on "regressive evolution," a departure from the original concept. "I was drawn to these two contradictory words. The keyword this time was 'gap,'" Morishita said. The first half of the looks presented featured sophisticated elegance, including rider jackets and slim tuxedo pants. As the show progressed, colors like navy and red appeared. The fit and flare of the pieces varied, with oversized coats, flared miniskirts with multiple layers, ensembles of similar skirts paired with slim jackets, and strappy dresses with flared skirts. There was also a schoolgirl-inspired look. "I depicted the reverse progression from adulthood to childhood," Morishita said. He also liked the toy-like feel of the bags decorated with transparencies by jewelry designer Maiko Takeda.

The contrast he speaks of doesn't just lie in the silhouette. The lace pattern embroidered in black on a black knitwear piece featured in the first half reappears in the second half, taking on color and creating a clear contrast with the body. It's also expressed through materials. A voluminous coat resembling black and white tweed is a knit coat made by twisting thick black and white threads together and knitting it with thin polypropylene. Various oversized coats also appeared in woven fabrics, creating a contrast through their rough texture.

The brand's signature use of shiny materials continues throughout. "I'm drawn to industrial vibes. I naturally end up using these kinds of materials," Morishita said with a laugh. At first glance, it may seem like a regression from the previous collection, consistent with the theme, but upon closer inspection, it turns out to be an outstanding collection that reveals the designer's creative talents. This is perhaps another contrast.