Balenciaga presented its Winter 25 collection in Paris on March 9th (local time).

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As a metaphor for the creative process, the Winter 25 collection was presented in a symmetrical backstage labyrinth with multiple entrances and exits. Boundaries were blurred and seating arrangements were reversed, giving everyone a seat in the front row.

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This collection is a study of standard dress codes and what it takes to place standard fits and garments in a fashion context. Focused on sociological observation of the wardrobe, underpinned by the principles of clothing construction and the pursuit of the golden ratio, it practices rigor, challenge, and the definition and rethinking of standards.

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The businesswear collection begins with four standard-fit two-piece suits: the same black suit worn by different individuals, embodying two distinctive attitudes: double standards; a hand-creased navy business suit; and an intricate gray "moth-eaten" pinstripe suit. The standard-fit jacket and maxi skirt combination challenges stereotypes of the suit. Also featured is a typical office commuter dressed in a cotton piqué polo shirt, an ultralight puffer, and a "wetsuit" leather jacket, all linked by an anatomical approach that applies sartorial principles to seemingly "ordinary" garments.

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Everyday silhouettes include clean, single-garment looks such as standard-fit maxi and three-quarter-length coats accented with godets, maxi trench coats, and faux fur coats. A double-breasted beige cashmere coat is finished with broken buttons, while a double-faced cream cashmere coat incorporates a scarf collar. A quarter zip from the back to the front reveals a zippered décolleté, reminiscent of Balenciaga's work for Bunny Mellon. The push-up and corset construction combine to create a sense of sartorial craft within standard garments. These include a hooded nylon puffer with a curved waistband, a poplin shirt, a leather jacket with "Victorian" biker sleeves, and a Molton hoodie.

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Standard garments are inverted and twisted while retaining their authenticity. Cabans and maxi coats incorporate cocoon volumes, while navy cardigans are floor-length and feature Medici collars. A shearling parka echoes the house's 1951 semi-fitted line. A Molton maxi hoodie is voluminous, reminiscent of a 1967 Balenciaga wedding dress, while standard-fit T-shirts are rendered raw or with the sleeves cut off. Resin-treated denim is distressed to create permanent wrinkles.

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Highlighting the adaptability of the anatomical approach, quintessential outerwear is crafted with Demna's fit. Harringtons, bombers, Molton-lined leather blousons, puffers, and equestrian workwear ensembles are followed by a Balenciaga I PUMA bathrobe in suede with a brushed reverse Molton lining. Supermini silhouettes comprise sweater dresses fastened with giant safety pins or belts, and supermini skirts are made from standard garments such as polos, button-up shirts, and tracksuit jackets tied together. A hand-sewn Dry Molton "Luxury" hoodie lined with ultra-fine cashmere is paired with matching hand-sewn sweatpants. Marché "Plastic Bag" shopping bags are made from crushed Dyneema®, a technical textile with tensile strength comparable to Kevlar®.

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Balenciaga I PUMA's technical sportswear is a modern take on streetwear, exuding minimalist sophistication and modern elegance. Watersports spandex "swim dresses" are featured as single-piece ensembles alongside grandiose couture-inspired opera coats crafted from faux fur and black nylon puffers.

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Business Bags revamp the briefcase with convertible handles. Handsfree bags and clutches are designed for hands-free device use. Purse pouches are crafted from lambskin, suede for jewelry bags, and cotton for leather-lined dust bags. The Balenciaga I PUMA Speedcat Ultrasoft with disrupted Formstrip omits all structure. Excavator Riding boots and chaps combine waders and riding boots. Typical "formal" footwear is transformed with Monsieur derby boots, booties, and monk straps alongside Portofino Mocassins and Hyperflat Rim Derbys. Balenciaga | Alpinestars gloves are reworked with piercings, spikes, and distressing on SMX-2 and Morph Gloves, complemented by co-branded SUPERTECH R10 helmets. Horoscope necklaces match the wearer's zodiac sign. The Faceless Geneva watch bracelet echoes the gesture of a watch without the need for time, mirroring unset Frame rings and earrings. Venice Beach Mask eyewear adapts to ski goggles with modular arms, offering versatile wearing options.

Courtesy of Balenciaga
Courtesy of Balenciaga
Courtesy of Balenciaga


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