Yoshiokubo, who presented a show at Milan Men's in January as part of Giorgio Armani's new designer development program, presented his Spring/Summer 2018 collection at Pitti Immagine Uomo 92 on June 15th. This marks the second collaboration between Pitti and JFWO (Japan Fashion Week Organization), following the previous January invitation of Sulvam.

The collection kicked off with a first look of all-red outfits. Coordinated with a variety of materials and items, the collection continued with three looks of sheer, one-tone layered looks. A red long jacket and black pants, paired with a red ombré, reveal the hand-dyed fabric.

While foil-stamped materials like pink gold gown coats and blue metallic coats were styled formally, they were also incorporated into sporty items, creating a street-inspired look that is characteristic of Tokyo fashion. The carefully crafted, handmade tailoring was a source of pride for the brand on the Pitti stage. While embracing the thin, light, and soft textures desired by men today, the collection showcased this season's trendy pattern-on-pattern sets. Gradient (diagonal) motifs were used effectively, with patchwork-style prints also appearing on sweatshirts. While the abstract patterns were based on traditional Japanese craft techniques, the Japanese feel was subtle. The styling featured gangster-inspired scarves, and the music was by DJ Shadow, with no gimmicks throughout. It will be interesting to see how the brand's uncompromising approach to clothing design, a blend of Japanese craft techniques and New York culture, connected by the concept of abstraction, resonated with the European market. Furthermore, JFWO had previously announced a Pokémon installation for this show. However, rather than a collaboration with the clothing, a mirrored box projecting Pokémon was installed on stage. Mirror boxes were also set up at the entrance to the Pitti venue outside of show times, allowing visitors to enter and enjoy taking commemorative photos with Pokémon.


Text: Tatsuya Noda