MARNI's Spring/Summer 2018 men's collection was unveiled in Milan on June 17th. The designer was Francesco Risso.
Risso took over from founder and designer Consuelo Castiglioni with the Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection, which was unveiled in January this year, and his first Spring/Summer collection was an analogue world, a stark departure from the previous collection's digital pixel world. Even the invitation cards for the show were craft paper with plastic figures.
This season's collection, themed "Lost and Found," seems to tell the story of the boy from last season growing up and going on a journey. The pinstripe jackets and ties, as well as the herringbone suits, were all presented in slightly off-kilter, relaxed sizes. The iconic yacht motif featured on shirts, knitwear, suits, and bags evokes the relaxed image of the American West Coast in the 1950s and 1960s, but the patchwork shirts and argyle knitwear are imperfectly finished and have loose threads. The world of Marni's architecture, featuring large-print short-sleeved shirts evoking Japanese family crests and shirts casually pasted with paintings by Magdalena Suárez, and subtle color balances, is the very essence of Marni's architecture. Risso has steadily inherited the Marni spirit, which translated Italian menswear, where sartorial techniques pursue perfect comfort, into the world of boys. There's no doubt that Marni remains an important brand in Milan men's fashion. Text: Tatsuya Noda