Thom Browne's Fall/Winter 2019-20 men's collection was unveiled in Paris on January 19th.
Due to the demonstrations of the Yellow Vests (mouvement 'Gilets jaunes'), which take place every Saturday across France, transportation was restricted and roads in central Paris were closed. As a result, buses carrying photographers and press from the previous show did not arrive, causing the show to start significantly later than scheduled. The venue was completely covered in bubble wrap, from the floor to the chairs and walls, and photographers waited in white coats, a touch typical of Thom Browne. However, the press, who arrived breathless, likely began the show without a clear picture of what was going on.
The first model to appear in the scene wore a transparent dress made from packaging material. It was a long, form-fitting dress made from bubble wrap. Models followed, wearing matching hats and gloves made from the same bubble wrap, and white strappy pumps as their shoes. Bubble wrap items also appeared on jackets, pants, dog-shaped bags, and Hector bags. It was as if they were announcing the brand's move to Zegna, whose acquisition was announced last fall.
All the looks had shaped waists and accentuated shoulders. More than half of the looks were skirts and heels. The dresses were tight, below the knee, and the models' strides were uniformly short. The beautiful tailoring techniques and calculated gray tones were no different from traditional Thom Browne. However, the jackets and coats were trompe l'oeil dresses, or asymmetrical dresses were attached, hybridizing parts and items using a variety of techniques. The hemlines of shirts and jackets, along with the sleeves and collars, are sculpted with the iconic tricolor tape. Of course, Thom Browne's signature cropped pants style is also featured, but the feet are topped off with short white socks and strappy heels.
Thom Browne, who has been presenting a skirt and high heel look since Spring/Summer 2018, said in an interview last year, "I want everyone to look at it with an open mind." In this season's press release, he commented, "What's wrong with turning women's wear into men's wear? What's wrong with men's wear that looks like women's wear?"
Text by Tatsuya Noda
Due to the demonstrations of the Yellow Vests (mouvement 'Gilets jaunes'), which take place every Saturday across France, transportation was restricted and roads in central Paris were closed. As a result, buses carrying photographers and press from the previous show did not arrive, causing the show to start significantly later than scheduled. The venue was completely covered in bubble wrap, from the floor to the chairs and walls, and photographers waited in white coats, a touch typical of Thom Browne. However, the press, who arrived breathless, likely began the show without a clear picture of what was going on.
The first model to appear in the scene wore a transparent dress made from packaging material. It was a long, form-fitting dress made from bubble wrap. Models followed, wearing matching hats and gloves made from the same bubble wrap, and white strappy pumps as their shoes. Bubble wrap items also appeared on jackets, pants, dog-shaped bags, and Hector bags. It was as if they were announcing the brand's move to Zegna, whose acquisition was announced last fall.
All the looks had shaped waists and accentuated shoulders. More than half of the looks were skirts and heels. The dresses were tight, below the knee, and the models' strides were uniformly short. The beautiful tailoring techniques and calculated gray tones were no different from traditional Thom Browne. However, the jackets and coats were trompe l'oeil dresses, or asymmetrical dresses were attached, hybridizing parts and items using a variety of techniques. The hemlines of shirts and jackets, along with the sleeves and collars, are sculpted with the iconic tricolor tape. Of course, Thom Browne's signature cropped pants style is also featured, but the feet are topped off with short white socks and strappy heels.
Thom Browne, who has been presenting a skirt and high heel look since Spring/Summer 2018, said in an interview last year, "I want everyone to look at it with an open mind." In this season's press release, he commented, "What's wrong with turning women's wear into men's wear? What's wrong with men's wear that looks like women's wear?"
Text by Tatsuya Noda
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