The number of runway shows at Milan men's shows has been on the decline in recent seasons, with men's collections being merged with women's. With an increasing number of buyers only ordering from exhibitions and skipping shows, Prada's presence is a major factor in drawing them to Milan. This was not simply a men's collection, but also contained elements of a prologue to the women's collection to be unveiled three months later, and to understand the sense of the times that Miuccia Prada is feeling behind it, it is necessary to understand the atmosphere of the show venue.

The venue design for the show, designed by AMO each season, is an important clue to deciphering Prada's fashion story for that season. This season, it was all neon lights and transparent sheets. All the seating was made of transparent inflatable stools. A work by Verner Panton from the 1960s, the pink neon light filtering through and reflecting off the vinyl, enveloping the audience in a mysterious, trippy atmosphere. The space was reminiscent of the 1960s American cartoon The Jetsons.

Verner Panton inflatable stools lined up in the show venue
Courtesy of Prada
Innerwear included high-necked brown leather coats in green, pink, blue, mustard and burgundy, single-breasted jackets with wide lapels, belted knit pants reminiscent of the hopsack pants popular during the surfer boom, and other plain items. The opening was followed by a series of tiny looks reminiscent of 1970s college looks, coordinated in bright colors.

The Prada logo was on the chest of the short-sleeved knit shirt and on the neck of the high-neck shirt worn underneath. The campy, intellectual style, exemplified by a mint green high-neck top, creased denim pants, and black loafers, was complemented by a flight cap (or bullfighter's cap, or montera) that looked as if it had been inflated, creating a curious balance that transcends eras and lifestyles.

Most of the tops, including jackets, blousons, shirts, and half-zip knit pullovers with large collars, were short, creating a clear silhouette with a clear border between the bottoms. This reflected Prada's declaration of a departure from the recent oversized trend. In particular, the ultra-mini shorts, available in a variety of colors including white, black, denim, orange, and burgundy, created a new Italian style.

Printed items, such as floral and optical motifs, psychedelic, anime, and photo collage motifs that are reminiscent of Scandinavian mid-century modern interior fabrics, were as fun as ever. Miuccia Prada's retrospective, amid Verner Panton's spacious designs, created a unique and fresh feel.


Text: Tatsuya Noda