Where are the models heading to as a lively march plays? They carry no weapons, no bags, and their hands are always empty. Carrying all the gadgets they need, they stride briskly in the bright morning sunshine. Beginning with the theme from "Thunderbirds," the collection featured songs like "The River Kwai March" from "The Bridge on the River Kwai" and "The Longest Day," evoking the nostalgia of dreamy men. COMME des GARÇONS JUNYA WATANABE MAN's Spring/Summer 2019 collection was unveiled at Paris Fashion Week on June 22nd. The collection featured a survival vest with large, three-dimensional pockets on the front, a striped T-shirt, a yellow blouson jacket paired with a double-pocket yellow sacoche, and pop camouflage pants. The blouson jacket evokes the "Souwester Coat," worn by fishermen to improve their visibility if they fell into the sea. Holster bags and waist bags, paired with shirts and tailored jackets, are either made of the same material as the clothing or fitted to the body in lightweight nylon for a balanced look. Gear vests, reminiscent of life vests and bulletproof vests that change appearance from front to back, pair unexpectedly with dreamy pieces like fruit-print shirts and gingham check. While the brand pioneered the idea and technique of skillfully incorporating functionality and details from military, workwear, and outdoor uniforms, this season's collection appears to have aimed to conservatively assimilate the background of those details, even as this has become mainstream in men's fashion. In a time when gender and seasonality are increasingly blurring, the brand emphasizes the utility of its clothing to support activity, while avoiding a focus on nature. While collaborating with various sports brands, his independent perspective is what saves him.


Text: Tatsuya Noda