© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared BuckhiesterBurberry has unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 Pre-Collection, designed by Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci.
"The Friends & Family series is very important to me as it celebrates togetherness, creativity and collaboration. It allows people who are special to me and who endlessly inspire me to bring their unique style and perspective to the world of Burberry. I am thrilled to welcome Jared Buckhiester as my Friends & Family collaborator for the second installment of the series, the Pre-Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Jared and I have been close friends for many years and I have always admired his dedication and passion for his work, as well as his drive to stay true to his identity. I am thrilled to share the results of our creative worlds coming together with the release of this unique and special collection."
Riccardo Tisci, Chief Creative Officer, Burberry
The collection celebrates the brand's house code of "duality." Combining dignity with sophisticated practicality, the collection showcases classic British femininity and functionality with a modern twist. These characteristics are evident in colorful workwear-inspired jackets, flowing silk shirts embellished with chain motifs, English-fit suits, and sporty co-ordination styles. Iconic Burberry outerwear pieces like duffle coats and car coats are accented with stripes, pleats, and knight-on-the-horse motifs, paired with tactile elements like leather ties, biker pants, and padded jackets. The Spring/Summer 2023 Pre-Collection marks the second installment of Riccardo Tisci's Friends & Family Creative Series, in which he partners with inspiring creators from his own background. For this collection, Riccardo has partnered with Jared Bacchiester, who also appeared in the Fall/Winter 2022 runway show. Jared styled the collection and photographed the lookbook, expressing his own interpretation of the collection's themes while solidifying his own creative identity.
"My experience can be summed up in one word: simply fun. Having such a strong team interested and responsive to the ideas I was asked to contribute was a great feeling, providing the space for creativity. It was a perfect collaboration from the start, and I was welcomed as a contributor. Ricardo and I share a love for the workwear aesthetic; much of my work as an artist draws on the masculine archetypes embodied in these garments. I quickly found this space enjoyable and creatively rewarding to work in. Those who know Ricardo know him as generous and honest." He knows that. That's why he attracts people who contribute creatively. He also has a keen eye for observation, so he doesn't miss anything. This, combined with his openness, makes him someone who can collaborate with you and find the ideas that best express you. Honestly, working with him was a dream. Burberry is an icon of British culture, and it's as woven into my own notion of being British as punk and rave culture. Adding to that Ricardo and my friendship with him makes Burberry more personal and tactile. It's got that British core, but rave is right there.
Jared Buckhiester, Artist
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
WOMEN
The utilitarian uniform reimagined. A birch brown checked wool hooded duffle coat is styled with a black leather shirt, tie, and biker pants for a rebellious look. A bright red wool and leather trimmed jacket accented with orange stripes and a dusty orange cotton canvas coat are paired with paneled blue jeans and a strapless playsuit.
The iconic car coat, crafted from technical fabric with feminine pleats at the back, features a jacquard "knight on horseback" design in cotton gabardine. It is worn under a black leather padded jacket and a light Air Force Green nylon bomber jacket. A trench is reimagined in leather and paired with a halter neck bodysuit and skirt. A diamond-quilted waxed cotton jacket and skirt have a fitted silhouette and are worn under an oversized shearling coat.
A modern take on classic British femininity. A smooth cashmere wraparound cape is crafted in a new pixel check and trimmed with leather. A parchment gray wool cardigan with floral details and crystal appliqués is paired with a chain-print silk tie-neck shirt and wool shorts with layered skirt-like panels in dark gray melange. A black wool-cashmere cardigan features farmyard animals in intarsia knit. Sportswear is reimagined in a bright blue bomber jacket and a floor-length skirt crafted from heavyweight technical knit with a chain print on the side. Tailoring mixes traditional and subversive elements in bold silhouettes. Black wool tailored jackets, either structured at the waist or boxy with colorful stripe appliqués, are paired with equestrian-inspired leather chaps and floor-grazing skirts. A dark grey melange wool tailored overcoat is paired with wide-leg trousers. For evening, a birch brown checked silk dress features a distinctive neckline and pleated ruffles. Also featured is a bold fringed chiffon dress with a chain trim around the neckline.
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
MEN
Workwear functionality is recontextualized with a playful twist. A dark birch brown cotton canvas car coat is worn under an oversized shearling coat. A utilitarian black cotton gabardine coat features exaggerated pockets and appliqué stripes. An orange cotton canvas field jacket features a corduroy collar and contrasting topstitching. A waxed cotton jacket with tonal panels is styled with a skirt and worn over a bespoke gabardine car coat in Honey and a wool-cashmere blend ribbed knit sweater. A logo quilted puffer jacket is worn under a leather apron.
House codes are further enhanced: a wool down jacket explores the dark birch brown Burberry check, and a wool-and-leather bomber jacket with badge appliqués is paired with a leather biker jacket and trousers. The "Knight on Horseback" motif is intarsia knit on a cashmere-wool twin set and 3D printed on a tailored jacket. A new chain motif is printed on a loopback cotton hoodie, and an all-over print on a cotton-wool track jacket and jogging trousers is accented with crystals.
Timeless tailoring is refreshed with signature and seasonal graphics. A black grained poudre wool tuxedo with satin lapels is paired with a bib-front cotton shirt featuring an oak leaf motif embellished with crystals. A white English fit suit is crafted from technical silk cady, while a silk twill shirt features a seasonal chain motif printed in a watercolor style.
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
BAGS
The black mini chain TB bag is adorned with sparkling crystals and a Thomas Burberry monogram clasp, with interlocking initials paying homage to the House's founder.
Catherine bags, Signature shapes and the new Eyewear Pouch with Strap are crafted in bright orange and tan leather, brushed brown leather with embossed logo, black shiny leather, smooth leather and crocodile-effect embossed leather.
The Lola bag is freshly crafted in green velvet with a knight on horseback motif, black leather with polished studs and a mini shape in brushed brown leather and white smooth leather with a larger-pitch quilting inspired by the Burberry check.
The new Sound Bag, a barrel-shaped bag reminiscent of a cylindrical speaker, is crafted in bright red embossed leather inspired by the house check. The classic leather crossbody bag is textured with a crystal-embellished chain pattern and the Thomas Burberry Monogram in polished leather.
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
Women's leather ankle boots are reinterpreted in dark birch brown Burberry check accented with wool and black velvet. Bitter chocolate lace-up leather boots feature a stiletto heel and lace guard detailing. Pointed-toe pumps feature contrast topstitched denim and crystal-embellished slingbacks with leather-trimmed chain straps that link to the Lola bag. Stiletto-heel sandals also feature chunky chain straps around the ankle.
Workwear and hiking-inspired men's boots feature lace-guard details. Bright red and black leather biker boots with buckle straps are available in mid-calf and knee-high lengths. New slip-on boots feature rubber soles and polished studs. Brogue-style derby shoes feature a chunky tread sole accented with archive beige Burberry check and grosgrain. Arthur sneakers are encased in a textured, technical zipper upper, and the signature tread sole is also featured on lattice leather sandals.
Rectangular-frame sunglasses feature cut-out temple details and orange lenses in black or tortoiseshell. Vintage-inspired square optical glasses are crafted from metal with acetate trim. Bow earrings are available in both velvet and grosgrain. Chain pendant earrings with dangling pearls. The TB Monogram earrings and deer-shaped ring are meticulously hand-set with crystals. An exaggerated signet ring incorporates a "knight on horseback" design.
An equestrian-inspired pillbox cap is elevated in wool and smooth leather. A leather belt features an oak leaf crest on the buckle. Bright orange sketch-print leather gloves are inspired by falconry gloves.
© Courtesy of Burberry | Jared Buckhiester
KEY COLORS
Soft fawn, dark birch brown, dark grey melange and black are accented with bright orange, bright red and true cobalt blue. Light Air Force Green and earth tones of bitter chocolate and tan add soft accents.
KEY PATTERNS AND PRINTS
The "Knight on Horseback" motif is featured in prints, jacquard weaves and intarsia knits. The house check is rendered in dark brown and a new pixel check. The newly introduced chain print is used as an accent and in all-over watercolor designs. Other eye-catching designs include delicate floral motifs adorned with appliqué and colorful crystals, and playful farmyard animals finished with intarsia knitting. The lineup also includes needle-punched and appliquéd stripes and geometric color-blocked bands.
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