From tradition to evolution: "French Living National Treasures" exhibition opens, passing on luxury techniques

Event Date:2017.09.12-11.26
Sep 15, 2017

The "French Living National Treasures" exhibition (organized by Tokyo National Museum, NHK Promotion, Asahi Shimbun, and HEART & crafts) opened on September 12th at the Hyokeikan Hall of the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno. The title of "Maître d'art" was established by the French Ministry of Culture in 1994, modeled after the Japanese title of "Living National Treasures = Holders of Important Intangible Cultural Properties," and as of 2016, 124 individuals have been awarded the title. This exhibition features approximately 230 pieces by 15 craft artists, including 13 of those recognized and two expected to be recognized in the next generation. The exhibiting artists, who had come to Japan specifically for the exhibition, participated in a preview held the day before the opening and explained their works. "The selected artists not only possess technical skills, but also innovation. I hope that visitors will experience their innovative spirit, which is reflected in their ongoing research and dedication to their mission, rather than simply inheriting tradition," said Helene Kelmachter, who previously served as cultural attaché at the French Embassy in Japan. In 2014, she curated an Issey Miyake design exhibition at Tokyo Midtown's 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. For this event, she curated a selection of artists with close ties to fashion, including haute couture houses and luxury brands. Another highlight of the exhibition is the spatial design, with lighting in each room, creating a story for each piece. "I hope visitors will see the techniques nurtured over a long history, the individual adventures, and how the works appear under different lighting conditions. Collaborating with Hyokeikan, we were able to participate in a project that transcends the boundaries of Japanese-French cultural exchange," said Lina Ghotmeh, who oversaw the exhibition's spatial design. The exhibition begins on the first floor with an exhibition by Jean GIREL, where 101 tea bowls are displayed like stars in space. The next room features reproductions of glasses worn by celebrities by Christian BONNET, a tortoiseshell craftsman known for Yves Saint Laurent's favorite glasses. Finally, there are bags by Serge AMORUSO, a leather craftsman who has worked on special orders for Hermès and is known for his innovative combinations of materials such as exotic leathers and meteorite fragments. (Laurent Darasp's works are also on display in the same room.)

Also on display are umbrellas by Michel Heurtault, an umbrella maker who provides for fashion houses like Dior and Givenchy; large-sized works by Pietro Seminelli, a renowned textile maker who uses pleating techniques; and the fantastical works of feather artist Nelly Saunier, whose clients include J.P. Gaultier, Nina Ricci, and Chanel. Saunier stayed and worked at Villa Kujoyama in Kyoto in 2015, which is supported by the Bettencourt Schueller Foundation, which provided patronage for this event. During her visit to Japan, she said with a smile, "I'd like to find an artisan who works with feathers in Japan." The embossing exhibition room also features Laurent Nogues, who uses the specially processed Japanese paper "Pachika" to create picture books for the visually impaired and architectural guidebooks, and who is practicing innovation in embossing. Gerard Desquand, a leading heraldic engraver who inherits techniques from the Middle Ages, also showcased this work. Desquand created a first-of-its-kind piece featuring animal engravings on glass. "Knowing that endangered animal species are declining worldwide, I began working on small metal seal engravings, a tradition dating back to the Mesopotamian civilization 6,000 years ago. I decided to work with glass to create a larger piece that would showcase these engravings. Each piece features two animals, and if two animals are left, they become three, representing the relationship between artisans and apprentices," he explained.
【Exhibition Information】
"French Living National Treasures"
Dates: September 12th - November 26th
Venue: Tokyo National Museum, Hyokeikan
Address: 13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 9:30am - 5pm (until 9pm on Fridays, Saturdays, and November 2nd, until 10pm on September 22nd and 23rd) *Last admission 30 minutes before closing
Closed: Mondays except October 9th
Admission: Adults 1,400 yen (1,100 yen), University students 1,000 yen (700 yen), High school students 600 yen (300 yen)
*Prices in parentheses are for groups of 20 or more
Organizers: Tokyo National Museum, NHK Promotion, The Asahi Shimbun, HEART & crafts
Text: Tatsuya Noda
野田達哉
  • Works by Nelly Sonnier
  • Jean Girelle's Yohen Tenmoku
  • Christian Bonnet's glasses
  • Glass works by Gérard Decquin
  • Cylinder seal engraving by Gérard Decquin
  • Laurent Nog
  • Works by Laurent Nog
  • Works by Nelly Sonnier
  • Works by Nelly Sonnier
  • Nelly Sonnier
  • Pietro Seminelli's woven fabrics
  • Pietro Seminelli's woven fabrics
  • Serge Amoruso bags
  • Olivier Brot Bettencourt, President of the Schueller Foundation
  • From the right) Gérard Descamps, Hélène Kermashter, and, one aside, Lina Ghotmeh
  • (From the right) Christian Bonnet, Hélène Kermasteir, and Olivier Brot Bettencourt-Schueller, president of the Foundation, explain the work.
  • Tokyo National Museum Hyokeikan
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