ISSEY MIYAKE's Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection was full of vibrant colors. Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae's third season saw him use 3D steam stretch fabric, which sparkled like a kaleidoscope and became even more fashionable. The theme was Colorscope. 3D steam stretch has evolved from lines to surfaces. This time, the focus was on color. Using cyan, magenta, and yellow threads, a single piece of fabric bloomed into a 3D flower, like a print. Motifs of natural colors and shapes—crystals, flowers, geological layers, and snail shells—are transformed into fashion through modern technology. The garments, woven with shadows, have a traditional jacquard weave. In addition to tops and skirts with abstract shapes, the collection also featured a wide selection of collared coats and jackets. From a distance, they resemble luxurious embroidery. The outerwear, with its grid-like texture, was double-woven. By shrinking the lower layer, details resembling smocking embroidery were automatically created.
Dresses, jackets, and coats, decorated with colorful geometric patterns reminiscent of snowflakes, were accented with black shadows in places, creating a three-dimensional look. The black zones appear to be cut or knitted, but in fact they are woven at different densities. Needless to say, all pieces were constructed from a single piece of fabric with the pattern already woven into it.
The final series of circular skirt looks were inspired by the structure of a conch shell. The models released their skirts, which had been held down with belts, in one go, creating a blooming flower on the runway. The finale performance ignited a whirlwind of excitement in the venue, and Miyamae was greeted with thunderous applause.
Miyamae seems to have no shortage of ideas for her next project, saying, "This time, I wanted to use colours that give people strength and other impressions. There are so many more things you can do with this 3D steam stretch. I could replace the embroidery technique with other techniques."
In fact, the invitation for the show was a scaled-down version of the skirt pattern. Printed with colours and conch shells, it condensed the theme of this season.
