Dries Van Noten presented his Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection. At first glance, the metallic brocade, puff sleeves, and peplums, reminiscent of 18th-century court attire, are very classical. However, upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that the collection incorporates Oriental design and casual style into couture. The dazzling embroidery and prints adorning the dresses, jackets, coats, and pants reference 19th-century Chinese folding screen paintings, Japanese cherry blossoms, and dragons. Chinese cloud patterns are remixed in different colors to resemble camouflage patterns. When printed on sweatshirts, they are combined with sequin embroidery for an elegant look. Cotton chinos are seamlessly styled with these pieces.

The gorgeous embroidered blouson is reversible; when turned inside out, it transforms into a navy quilted jacket, giving it a completely casual impression. The classic coat is given a more casual look with large work pockets.

The silhouette is slender. Wide-leg pants, maxi coats, and tight skirts create an I-line. Pleated skirts long enough to trail the hem are worn over the skirts, emphasizing their vertical length. There is also a dress with a skirt attached to a removable belt.

Dries's technique of arranging various elements to create a modern style shone through.


Courtesy of DRIES VAN NOTEN