British Tailoring Beyond Functionality [London Men's Day 3, Part 2/2]

Jan 20, 2015

Sheepskin outerwear has been prominent this season. James Long was one of the brands to show sheepskin outerwear, including the combat jacket with a large collar that was also featured in their debut collection. This season started with the idea of "making menswear more than just functional," and while based on sportswear, the collection also enjoyed changes beyond functionality, such as adding shirring with tape and buckles to parkas and adding appliqué decoration to training pants-style bottoms. James Long 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter Collection

Inspired by the British engineers who worked on the arduous construction of the Trans-Andean Railway at the end of the 19th century, Richard James presented a collection that blended British and Andean styles. As a tailor who also offers bespoke tailoring, I expected to see a lineup of suits, but there were very few suit-like pieces. Instead, the collection featured a strong Western-inspired look, featuring denim or corduroy pants paired with chunky boots and ponchos. The ponchos were made from herringbone-patterned wool, while the pockets, collars, and cuffs of tailored jackets featured small, colorful Andean motifs. The quintessentially British velvet slippers (men's slip-on shoes) were embroidered with Andean motifs.
Richard James 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection

Turnbull & Asser, a long-established shirt manufacturer making its first appearance at London Collections: Men, presented a collection inspired by spy novels and gangster movies and showcasing themes of adult men's play. The collection featured shirt and tie combinations appropriate for recreational scenes such as playing cards, chess, and horse racing, as well as jackets with playing card patterns. The vibrant ties even featured a jigsaw puzzle pattern.

Pringle of Scotland, celebrating its 200th anniversary this year, is also showcasing a collection inspired by spy novels and gangster movies and showcasing themes of adult men's play. The 200th anniversary celebrations kicked off with a men's collection show. Befitting this commemorative year, the show looked back on the brand's history and featured knitwear as outerwear. Knitwear was used throughout coats and jackets, including in sections. The signature argyle pattern was, as expected, used throughout. Crafted from shorn mink, the argyle combines luxury and delicacy.
Pringle of Scotland 2015-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
パースニップス・プレス
  • James Long 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • James Long 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Richard James 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Turnbull & Asser 15-16 AW Collection
  • Turnbull & Asser 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Turnbull & Asser 15-16 AW Collection
  • Pringle of Scotland 15-16 AW Collection
  • Pringle of Scotland 15-16 AW Collection
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