Raf Simons' Dior: Challenging Change [14SS Paris Women's]

Oct 3, 2013

Dior presented its Spring/Summer 2014 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Artistic Director Raf Simons envisioned a woman who was "sophisticated yet wild, unpredictable in her origins and future, full of change and potential." The venue, set to resemble construction site scaffolding, was decorated like a paradise with fresh and artificial flowers. The themes were "Traveler," "Transformer," and "Transporter," which combined to express "Trans Dior" (Dior Transformation). 28 different patches symbolized the explorer (Traveler). Using haute couture techniques such as embroidery, the house's iconic motifs, such as houndstooth and lily of the valley, were adorned. "Transformer," representing change, featured modern reinterpretations of archive designs. These included a pantsuit skirt that combined pants and a skirt, a bar jacket with an accentuated waistline through cutwork, and a shirtdress with draping and switching to create an hourglass silhouette. This collection features 16 different pleat styles, including two-stage pleats and bias pleats.

The final piece, "Transporter," is a more avant-garde design. The messages "Primrose Path" and "Whisuper Yellow" written on the dresses are the names of new colors of the future envisioned by Raf. Cashmere knits are lined with tulle to create a figure-eight silhouette. Also featured were bustier dresses made from ribbon, dresses redesigned from haute couture archive pieces, and tuxedos with panels at the back for added volume and flare.

The finale showcased 31 new looks, a new style developed from the Bar jacket Raf created for Dior.
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