Mint Designs presented their 17SS collection on October 19th at Liquidroom in Ebisu, Tokyo. While it took place during Tokyo Fashion Week, it was held independently and not part of the official schedule. This spring, the brand opened its first street-level store in Aoyama, showcasing a bold runway show as a representative brand of Tokyo fashion. Perhaps inspired by the season's theme, "SUBWAY," the collection incorporated 90s street icons like New York subway graffiti and stencils, and Keith Haring's barking dog-inspired zigzag pattern, into the brand's signature elaborate sportswear, using high-tech materials, cutting-edge processing like punching, embroidery, and handmade fabric treatments like macramé. Minimal patterns like stars, stripes, borders, polka dots, and checks were layered with lacy and three-dimensional materials. The use of varying lengths, shirring techniques, and a limited number of colors created a new overall balance. While incorporating edgy trends like oversized silhouettes, asymmetrical shirt blouses, long sleeves, hoodies, and wide-leg pants, the brand maintains a design-conscious approach. Since the 1990s, designers Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi have grown into a duo representing Tokyo mode, distinct from the streetwear brands that have influenced the international fashion scene since Tokyo. After both graduating from Central Saint Martins, they launched their brand in 2001 and participated in Tokyo Collection in 2003, marking their 30th collection. Their ideas, which have recently included collaborations with Fred Perry and various non-clothing product designs, are always full of humor and wit, raising expectations for their full-scale expansion overseas. Although the show began after 9:30 PM, the venue was packed with journalists and buyers who had been following the 1970s TD6 and 1980s Tokyo Collections, demonstrating the high level of attention.

Text: Tatsuya Noda