A social study tour for adults and children in Nihonbashi, Tokyo's capital since the Edo period! A tour of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi's buildings, which were founded 343 years ago

Aug 8, 2016
Summer vacation is in full swing! Traveling somewhere is fun, but there are also places in the heart of Tokyo that will satisfy your curiosity. Nihonbashi is within walking distance of Tokyo Station and Ginza. In the long-prosperous Nihonbashi district, there is a spot that is sure to attract attention this summer. This summer, Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store was designated an Important Cultural Property. We will introduce you to the highlights of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, full of history and charm.


The Western-style architecture that remains today is the pride of the town of Nihonbashi

Nihonbashi was the castle town of Edo, and since the Meiji period, it has developed as the center of Japan's economy. As the eras changed from the Meiji to the Taisho period, modern commercial buildings were built one after another, transforming the town. Nihonbashi is home to a number of famous buildings designated as Important Cultural Properties, all within a 10-minute walk, including the Bank of Japan Head Office, designed by Tatsuno Kingo, a leading figure in the Japanese architectural world; the American Renaissance-style Mitsui Main Building; Nihonbashi Takashimaya, which brings together the beauty of both East and West, past and present; and Japan's most famous bridge, Nihonbashi. Among these, the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store has been newly designated as a nationally important cultural property. Let's take a look at the highlights of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi, a pioneer in Japanese department store architecture.

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The current (2016) Mitsukoshi Main Store in Nihonbashi


The Mitsukoshi Main Store in Nihonbashi, the cornerstone of department store architecture in Japan

Tracing back to the history of Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi, the store began as Mitsui Echigoya, a kimono shop founded in 1673 that was one of the first to offer cash sales and was cheered on by the common people of Edo (present-day Edo). In 1904 (Meiji 37), Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Store announced its intention to further develop beyond its business as a kimono merchant, following in the footsteps of the long-established London department store Harrods, and made a name for itself as Japan's first department store. The five-story reinforced concrete building that opened in 1914 (Taisho 3) featured beautiful decorations and the latest facilities, such as a Renaissance-style exterior, a central hall with a light-filled ceiling, and an elevator, and became the foundation for department store architecture in Japan. Although it was subsequently damaged in the Great Kanto Earthquake, it has since been restored, expanded, and renovated, and has since been revived with new appeal.

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The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store in 1914 (Taisho 3)

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The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store in 1935 (Showa 10)


The Main Building's Lion Entrance, Welcomed by Mercury, the God of Commerce, and Lions

Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store has such a rich history. First, take a close look at the exterior of the main building's front entrance, where the lion statues are enshrined. The consistent design, which belies repeated renovations and expansions, is likely due in large part to the fact that the same company (now Yokogawa Architects) has consistently carried out construction since the Taisho era. The golden statue shining on the decorated wall is Mercury, the Italian god of commerce. Below it is the main entrance to the main building, commonly known as the Lion Entrance, where two lion statues reside. During a visit to England during the Meiji era, then-manager Hibi Osuke was impressed by the lion statues in Trafalgar Square. He immediately commissioned the creation of a new one, and since 1914, the lion statues have welcomed customers to Mitsukoshi. The lion statues, which are associated with urban legends such as prayers for success in exams, are decorated with poems by poet Shuntaro Tanikawa, inspired by the statues.

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The lion statue at the main entrance of the main building


The celestial maiden statue is worth admiring from both above and below. Ammonites adorn the hall walls.

Next, we head to the five-story central hall in the main building. There are plenty of highlights, including marble-clad pillars and beams, an exotically decorated ceiling with stained glass, Art Deco decorations on the handrails and glass on the corridors, and a pipe organ. In the center of the hall is a celestial maiden statue known as the "Magokoro-zo," which took 10 years to complete. Be sure to take the time to appreciate not only the gentle, smiling celestial maiden statue's front, but also the intricate carvings on the back, including cute birds and psychedelic spheres. The first and third floors are the best viewing points for the statue. And don't miss the ammonite fossils peeking out from the hall's walls here and there as if saying "hello." The central hall, with discoveries everywhere, is a fun place to visit no matter how many times you visit. You can listen to the sounds of the pipe organ three times a day, on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, at 10:30, noon, and 3:00 pm.

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The impressive "Magokoro Statue" welcomes you in the central hall.


After admiring the monumental structure on the rooftop, take a break with a children's lunch that's perfect for adults too.

Take the retro-modern elevator reminiscent of the Taisho era to the rooftop garden. This towering structure against the blue sky is a monumental structure built in 1921 (Taisho 10). It's a symbol of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, so be sure to check it out. Also on the rooftop is Minomiya Shrine in Mukojima, so be sure to visit to pray for a wonderful day. Other must-see spots include the Mitsukoshi Theater, where you'll be overwhelmed by its gorgeous decorations. After touring the important cultural properties within the building, head to the cafe and restaurant "Landmark" to enjoy their signature menu. The "Children's Lunch" (800 yen), which has been a favorite among children since its introduction in 1930, is Landmark's flagship menu item. Served in a steam locomotive-shaped bowl with a sizzling sound, it contains chicken rice, fried shrimp, spaghetti, and other authentic Western dishes, even though it's a children's lunch. Adults are also welcome to order, so it makes a great accompaniment to beer. The "Lion Pancakes" (600 yen), which are even cuter than the lion statue, are said to be popular not only with children but also with adult women.

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The "Children's Lunch" (800 yen) has been popular since its introduction in 1930.


Now, Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store is currently holding a "Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store In-Store Tour" for those who want to learn more about the store's history and famous spots within the store. It might be a good idea to take an intellectual holiday learning about famous architecture while you shop.
[Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store In-Store Tour Details]
Second Saturday of every month: Part 1 from 11:30
Part 2 from 14:30
Duration: Approximately 70 minutes
Capacity: 15 people per session
Participation fee: Free
*Applications are accepted at the Lion Entrance Information Counter on the 1st floor of the main building
*Applications for the "Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store History Tour" for elementary, junior high and high school students are also being accepted on the website.
森有貴子
  • The giant "Magokoro Statue" in the central hall
  • The main entrance side of the main building where the lion statue is enshrined
  • Mercury, the god of commerce, welcomes you at the Lion Entrance of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Building
  • Mercury, the god of commerce, welcomes you at the Lion Entrance to the main building
  • The main entrance side of the main building where the lion statue is enshrined
  • Pay attention to the detailed decorations
  • Ammonite fossils are hidden in the walls of the central hall
  • Ammonite fossils on the wall of the central hall. When I looked around, I found one this big.
  • The central hall houses the "Magokoro Statue," which took 10 years to complete.
  • The statue of a heavenly maiden known as the "Magokoro statue"
  • Be sure to check out the intricate carvings, including adorable birds and psychedelic spheres.
  • Be sure to check out the intricate carvings, including adorable birds and psychedelic spheres.
  • Be sure to check out the intricate carvings, including adorable birds and psychedelic spheres.
  • The statue of a heavenly maiden known as the "Magokoro statue"
  • The monumental tower that can be seen on the rooftop is the symbol of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store
  • Don't forget to visit Migo Shrine on the rooftop
  • Don't forget to visit Migo Shrine on the rooftop
  • Don't forget to visit Migo Shrine on the rooftop
  • Don't forget to visit Migo Shrine on the rooftop
  • The popular "Children's Lunch" (800 yen) has been available since its introduction in 1930.
  • "Lion Pancakes" (600 yen) are even cuter than the lion statues
  • elevator
  • The elevator is beautifully decorated
  • elevator
  • The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store in 1914 (Taisho 3)
  • The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store in 1921
  • The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store in 1935
  • Current (2016) exterior of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Building
  • Current (2016) exterior of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Building
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