HYKE's Spring/Summer 2021 collection was unveiled online. 40 women's looks were presented on a runway at an empty go-kart track. By combining details of military men's items and medical uniforms, such as shirring at the neckline and waist, low-gauge knitwear with pleated skirts, fringe, and organza, the collection further evolved its unique femininity.
Many of the core elements of overseas fashion trends over the past few seasons are elements that HYKE has not changed since the brand's debut. Taking men's fashion bases like military, uniform, workwear, outdoor, and tailored styles and incorporating sportswear materials as accents, the brand creates high-quality urban women's wear. Since their debut, designers Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Oide's genderless and minimalist pieces have been popular with men, even though they have not officially launched a men's line. This is due in part to their commitment to men's tailoring of the front of every piece, and to the fact that the brand may have been the origin of the now-mainstream "oversized" fashion trend. Furthermore, looking back at their pioneering collaborations with sports and outdoor brands like Mackintosh, The North Face, and adidas, it can be said that it was not simply a logo design collaboration; rather, the functionality and design inherent in each brand's heritage offered new market possibilities for luxury fashion.
In this show, as in previous seasons, HYKE stripped away all unnecessary elements, emphasizing the overall balance of the design. The emphasis was on the silhouette, which could be considered the foundation of womenswear, as if seeking an identity that would be recognizable as HYKE at a glance. To that end, the number of colors used in each item was kept to a minimum, with the collection as a whole featuring solids of white, black, navy, khaki, and beige, as well as stripes. This season, the only additions were the vibrant blues and saxophone often associated with vintage French workwear.
The materials used are primarily cotton, linen, and wool, with slightly heavier materials such as artificial suede used to beautifully create oversized silhouettes. New items include the ultra-lightweight, water-repellent, windproof, and breathable high-tech material PERRTEX, as well as long military coats and ponchos with a glossy laminated finish, and the shapes can be changed by combining them with accessories such as backpacks and crossbody bags. Fringe, a trend from the 20/21 Autumn/Winter season, adds movement to the hems, and the asymmetrical design, combined with thick fabrics such as oxford and grosgrain, loose organza sleeves in the same color, and ruffled shawls, presents a hybrid feel and femininity in today's women's fashion in a way that is characteristic of HYKE. Stripped of unnecessary concepts and themes, this collection is like a gentle breeze in an era when terms like "new normal" and "new lifestyle" have taken on a life of their own. Furthermore, while men's sizes were previously only available as special orders at select shops, starting this season, some items, including PERTEX coats, are now available in sizes 4 and 5 for men and tall sizes. Text / Tatsuya Noda
