Ryota Murakami, who aspired to be a designer, pursued his roots while studying fashion at Coconogacco, a school run by Yoshikazu Yamagata. As a result, he decided to create his collections in close collaboration with his mother. Click here for part 1 of 2. In the second half of our interview with Ryota Murakami, we discuss his Fall/Winter 2016-17 collection, themed around a "boutique on the outskirts of town" that has never had a customer. We also ask about his vision for the future. --Tell us about this Fall/Winter collection. The model for the first look was a grandmother. The theme for Fall/Winter 2016-17 is "boutskirt boutique." What's more, the boutique has never had a single customer. Despite the lack of customers, the owner says he just loves making clothes, and that even though no one asks him to, he still does it because he loves it. I came across a boutique like that in Rome when I was in Italy some time ago. It was just sitting there, in an alleyway where you'd never know who would walk by, and it felt like an apartment. There, an old lady was making these incomprehensible things—lumps of fur with eyes.

--When you think of fur in Rome, you think of FENDI (laughs)

That's right (laughs). But the quality was really low and the sense was off. She had about 200 of them displayed on the wall, and she said, "It's my daily routine to make one of these every day." She also makes her own clothes, which are pretty high-quality...but somehow lovable. I don't think they sell much either.



But that really connected with what my mother did. She made things without any desire for recognition, "simply because she loved it." That's why the grandmother in the first look is inspired by the boutique owner. She's wearing a white coat like a seamstress, and a pincushion with a hydrangea design. Then, her "sons" appear wearing the clothes made by their grandmother.



--I see, so that's why you're taking a slightly androgynous approach.

The clothes my mother made for me when I was little were also a bit androgynous, and many of the clothes looked better on girls, so I think that's why I didn't really think about it that way. I also wanted to express the designer's desire to dress the models and the sense of being dressed by them through the show. That's why I forced the men's models to wear them.



--What kind of collection do you think next season will be?

Until now, my mother and I have been working together completely, but next season I'm thinking about dividing up the work. When I say dividing up, I mean just separating the parts within the same collection, so that my mother is in charge of one part and mine is in charge of another. I'd also like to create looks where I'm not involved at all. I also want to see what my mother creates purely.

--So, will you continue to create together in the future?

I don't know what the future holds, but I do have a goal of taking my mother to an overseas fashion show. Actually, my mother also has her own goals, and she's serious about it. She apparently wants to dress Masaharu Fukuyama (laughs). She said something like, "If I could work with Masaharu Fukuyama, I'd retire" (laughs).

--I think the possibility is zero (laughs). What kind of brand do you want to create in the future, Murakami-san?

I think it's becoming more commonplace than ever for fashion designers to make good clothes. I would like to turn my attention to things that are not limited to the fashion system, and I believe they are needed. I believe there are still many things I don't know about, and I would like to actively challenge myself when I am approached, as with this exhibition at the art gallery.

In this exhibition, I thought art was similar to fashion, but the feedback I received was often different from usual. While art creates value from context, even if it is cruel, fashion makes people happy. I was reminded once again that it is something that makes people happy. In that sense, I believe there are still places where it is needed, and I would like to make it a brand that people will once again feel is needed.


Ryota Murakami's relaxed collection, free in color and silhouette, is permeated with a positive omnipotence. And above all, it is filled with love. The reason is obvious. The "clothing of love" woven in tandem with his mother will surely, but just a little, make the world a happier place.



[Event Information]
The drama ~TOKYO uniform~
Dates: May 25th to June 7th (end of period)
Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 2F = Center Park / TOKYO Kaihoku

The life ~TOKYO uniform~
Dates: June 15th to 21st (end of period)
Venue: JR Kyoto Isetan 5F Special Venue

The days ~TOKYO uniform~
Venue: July 27th to August 2nd Venue: Ginza Mitsukoshi 3rd floor Le Place Promotion Space

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