[LOOK] Mame Kurogouchi reveals looks from her 2023 Pre-Fall collection

Feb 6, 2023
Mame Kurogouchi has unveiled the looks for her 2023 Pre-Fall Collection.


The Mame Kurogouchi 2023 Pre-Fall Collection is centered around monochrome, inspired by memories of travels to Arles, the ancient city nestled on the banks of the Rhône River in the Provence region of southern France. The collection evokes the city's iconic white buildings made of sandy limestone, a theme shared by its iconic Romanesque architecture and ancient Roman ruins, the ancient memories revealed by the limestone strata exposed nearby, and the biodiversity made possible by the abundant nature that has captivated so many artists. The dazzling early summer days in Arles are inspired by the coexistence of the various shades of white that characterize the city, from off-white to off-white, milky white to pure white, resulting from the limestone that characterizes the city. This creates a new wardrobe full of possibilities, like a blank canvas, suggesting the countless new journeys that lie ahead.


Coats, jackets, and bustiers feature magnificent quilted floral embroidery, evocative of the traditional bouti embroidery technique of Provence in southern France, and are crafted from luxurious materials, with a silk outer fabric, a silk cupro lining, and silk batting filling. Traditionally used in Japan, silk padding is lightweight and moisture-wicking, providing a gentle warmth like a second or third skin, while also bringing the joy of wearing a natural material into everyday life.


Memories of the vibrant flowers and plants I witnessed in Arles are sublimated into delicate, colorful embroidery, lending a dignified serenity and strength to a collection with a hazy nuance reminiscent of a daydream. Tone-on-tone embroidery emerges on silk dresses and open-collar shirts, seemingly coming to life as the body is placed inside. This season, my unique perspective on textures taken from the everyday is further refined to the microscopic level. The abstract landscapes created by chance when limestone powder floating in the streets of Arles adheres to skin and clothing influence the texture of various pieces.


The smooth texture of the fabric, achieved through Nidom processing, is transformed into a bold overshirt reminiscent of an oversized men's shirt with a meticulous pattern design. Mame Kurogouchi's answer to this most basic piece of clothing presents a nonchalant "design with attitude." The trousers, featuring numerous radial tucks creating a symbolic shadow around the waist, are made from cotton fabric treated with Omi-sarashi bleaching, and together with a triacetate suit that recreates the color and feel of linen, their dry texture will ensure comfort from the end of summer through to autumn.


The wide-leg trousers featured throughout the collection also embody the relaxed mood of the South of France, creating a silhouette with a powerful and feminine style in this collection covered in delicate cuts and motifs. The elegant heels, featuring the brand's signature graceful cut, are now available in a new suede material, and the egg-heeled low-heel pumps that graced the runway of the Spring/Summer 2023 collection will also be included in the lineup as a new staple piece in this collection.



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