At PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 94, BED J.W. FORD presented its Spring/Summer 2019 collection at Leopolda Station. Designer Shinpei Yamagishi.
The brand has been around for seven years. It made its runway debut at Tokyo Fashion Week in Spring/Summer 2017 and has participated in a joint Paris exhibition supported by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO) for the past three seasons. This was its first overseas show.
The collection offers genderless menswear based on tailored pieces. While the classic texture of materials reminiscent of fall/winter is lightened with the use of polyester, the lines are beautifully crafted with attention to detail. The collection explores the Western trend, a popular menswear trend, incorporating classic equestrian details into traditional styles such as Edwardian, and horse motifs hand-painted by kimono artisans. While eschewing street casual, the pieces are reconstructed with a fashionable perspective befitting a Tokyo designer. The coat's split sides can be worn as a shoulder bag or as a long vest, thanks to its straps, making it a distinctive and iconic piece. The rough hemline, the use of lustrous materials, and the subtle sexiness of the embroidery and knitwear were well-received by overseas buyers. The finale also featured a pre-release collaboration with adidas Originals, which will begin in Fall/Winter 2019-18. It's interesting to note that this collaboration, along with Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist, who presented at Pitti Uomo last season as a guest designer, represents a new trend in men's design emanating from Tokyo. Text: Tatsuya Noda