The opening look featured a white mohair double-breasted suit, a white poplin shirt, and white patent leather cufflinks. A matching white Keepall embossed bag was also paired with the suit, and a white plastic-like chain dangled from it. The all-white styling continued, leading one to wonder if everything was going to be white, and this was the start of Virgil's signature puzzle game: was this not OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH™?? Following Kim Jones's move to Dior Men's, Virgil Abloh's first collection as artistic director of Louis Vuitton Men's was full of surprises. On June 21, the Palais Royal in Paris was transformed into a rainbow of colors, and guests walked to their seats under clear skies along a runway spanning the entire length of the garden. All seats were in the front row, each with a T-shirt in the color of their area. Behind the seats, staff and students wearing the same T-shirts stood to watch the show. A drone hovered overhead, creating a spectacular bird's-eye view. One after another, models clad in all white walked out. Neoprene velvet "monogrammed" tops, organza parkas also featuring "monogrammed" designs, denim, washed cargo pants, mink jackets, crocodile leather trench coats, rain ponchos, and leather sneakers—all in white. The first 17 looks were stunning, ranging from leather vests with utility pockets and cargo pants to red gloves and sneaker boots with red accents.

Fluorescent yellow items were also used effectively, such as a quilted fluorescent yellow vest paired with a camel jacket, a multicolored tie-dye anorak, and an organza shirt with the same pattern. White, taupe, black, and red tie-dye patterns were used on various items, flowing into an all-red look. Another camel leather red look was sandwiched between a fluorescent orange vest, a turquoise satin shirt, cargo pants, and a shirt with a fluorescent yellow bib and turquoise utility pockets, and the show progressed with the flow of a seasoned DJ's music selection. The collection was packed with new elements, including an oversized denim jacket, a transparent "Monogram" Keepall with a plastic-like keychain as a new signature, and transparent green and red "Monogram" bags. However, there were no collaborations this time around, and the 56 looks in total seemed to declare that Virgil Abloh would continue the new Louis Vuitton direction established by Kim Jones. The floral patterns that appeared in the nylon anoraks and hand-embroidered jackets towards the end of the show were inspired by "The Wizard of Oz," another element of the show. They depicted Oz meeting various friends and growing with their help, which was a theme of the show. A hand-knitted sweater with silhouettes of the main character Dorothy's friends solves a mystery, and in the finale, Virgil hugs Kanye West, tears in his eyes, and walks down the runway from the other side, looking down. It's like watching a reality show. It really makes you realize that a new era is upon us.


Text: Tatsuya Noda