On September 27th at 8:00 PM (local time), Saint Laurent held its Summer 2023 women's collection show.
The head-to-toe, tight, tubular dress worn by the legendary dancer Martha Graham in her 1930 work "Lamentation" had a profound impact on visual culture and fashion, its influence reaching far beyond the world of dance and transcending time. This theme was evident in Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent's many collections, from his collaboration with Claude Laren in 1969, where sheer hooded chiffon dresses were created, to his memorable modernist Spring/Summer 1985 Haute Couture collection, where fabric draped over the models' heads gave the looks a casual touch, and again in his Autumn/Winter 2002 Haute Couture collection, the House's founder's final show.
These precedents, particularly Monsieur's hooded "Cappuccio" from the mid-1980s, have become key emblems of the House, providing crucial reference points for Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, who aimed to combine it with last season's ultra-refined, elongated silhouettes for his Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
The smooth fluidity of silk jersey knit characterizes the collection. Ground-length dresses exude refined ease, perfectly balanced with the masculine outerwear that is the hallmark of Vaccarello's Saint Laurent collection: wool coats with strong shoulders, leather bomber jackets, and trench coats. Luxuriously muted tones evoke the house's iconic era, while tubular silhouettes thoroughly encase bare legs. Sheer tank dresses, cashmere trousers, and pyjama-inspired satin looks echo the collection's theme of refined effortlessness, accented effectively by sculptural wood and gold jewellery.
The show was set on a cinematic scale, capturing the essence of Paris. Terraces, fountains and the iridescent cityscape provided a majestic backdrop for Vaccarello's ever-evolving vision.
SAINT LAURENT SUMMER 2023
ANTHONY VACCARELLO
The head-to-toe, tight, tubular dress worn by the legendary dancer Martha Graham in her 1930 work "Lamentation" had a profound impact on visual culture and fashion, its influence reaching far beyond the world of dance and transcending time. This theme was evident in Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent's many collections, from his collaboration with Claude Laren in 1969, where sheer hooded chiffon dresses were created, to his memorable modernist Spring/Summer 1985 Haute Couture collection, where fabric draped over the models' heads gave the looks a casual touch, and again in his Autumn/Winter 2002 Haute Couture collection, the House's founder's final show.
These precedents, particularly Monsieur's hooded "Cappuccio" from the mid-1980s, have become key emblems of the House, providing crucial reference points for Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, who aimed to combine it with last season's ultra-refined, elongated silhouettes for his Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
The smooth fluidity of silk jersey knit characterizes the collection. Ground-length dresses exude refined ease, perfectly balanced with the masculine outerwear that is the hallmark of Vaccarello's Saint Laurent collection: wool coats with strong shoulders, leather bomber jackets, and trench coats. Luxuriously muted tones evoke the house's iconic era, while tubular silhouettes thoroughly encase bare legs. Sheer tank dresses, cashmere trousers, and pyjama-inspired satin looks echo the collection's theme of refined effortlessness, accented effectively by sculptural wood and gold jewellery.
The show was set on a cinematic scale, capturing the essence of Paris. Terraces, fountains and the iridescent cityscape provided a majestic backdrop for Vaccarello's ever-evolving vision.
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