Mame Kurogouchi, the inaugural winner of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government's Fashion Prize of Tokyo (FPT), presented their 2018-19 Fall/Winter collection in Paris on March 2nd in an installation format. On March 19th, they presented their first runway collection in Tokyo. The show took place at Amazon Japan's Shinagawa photo studio, which had just been unveiled on the 15th, as part of the "AT TOKYO" special program of Amazon Fashion Week TOKYO (AFWT). The collection, a triumphant return of the pieces presented in Paris, showcased the mind-boggling process of meticulously handcrafting a single dress, including fringe, embroidery, lace, punching, intricate knitwear, and leatherwork. While military-inspired mannish elements were apparent in select pieces, such as shearling bomber jackets and rider jackets, the collection's overall silhouette was composed of feminine silhouettes. The all-silk Chinese-style gown coat and dresses featuring oriental botanical patterns, such as lilies, irises, and bamboo, are perfectly tuned with the overall tone of the collection.

Designer Maiko Kurokawa's feminine expression, which shifts from "cuteness" to "strength," echoes the general trend of Western luxury. Add to this the Tokyo-style mix of diverse information and cultures that defines the brand, establishing it as a Japanese fashion brand.

One of the inspirations for this season is French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, a student of Le Corbusier and deeply involved in Japanese folk art. The brand's iconic PVC skeleton bag motif and lace motifs may connect Japan and Paris.


Text: Tatsuya Noda