Ermenegildo Zegna Couture's Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection was presented on January 12th at the Luigi Bocconi University of Commerce in Milan. The Spring/Summer 2018 collection took place in the courtyard of the University of Milan, marking the second consecutive season held on the university campus in Milan. Following the show, all models lined up in an installation to celebrate the official launch of Milan Men's. As with the previous season, the show opened with a blanket of snow covering the entire venue. The first look featured a one-button suit with a relaxed silhouette, offset pockets reminiscent of a blouson jacket, and a mid-length, double-breasted silhouette. A matching belt draped in front hinted at street influences, while the slim tie was double-knotted, showcasing the playful spirit of Alessandro Sartori, who returned as creative director last season. This new design, known as the "One 1/2 Pressed" construction, with offset buttons, is used on coats as well as jackets, demonstrating Zegna's ongoing research into new forms of tailoring. It reflects the brand's current commitment to creating new markets. A sporty look, typified by adjustable trouser cuffs and mountain boots, is presented alongside three-dimensional knitwear as versatile pieces, including velour with the handmade XXX logo on the chest, a zip-up down jacket, and a chevron-quilted pullover. A wool-leather hybrid blouson features a layered collar paired with a squared-neck knit, while a leather blouson with curved fur bonded to it emphasizes new shapes that accentuate its curves.
Because Zegna handles everything from spinning and dyeing to fabrics, using cashmere jacquard, compact mohair, brushed alpaca, corduroy, velour, wool and cotton, the overall tone of the collection is perfectly tuned. This season's key color, the natural colors of the frozen landscape, appears in brighter tones of cashmere, with orange, purple and yellow as accent colors.
Following on from last season, a reversible deerskin tote bag will be available online from the day after the show as a SEE NOW BUY NOW item, and will also be sold in Japan in limited quantities at the Ginza flagship store.
Text: Tatsuya Noda
