Marni portrays the hip, travelling man [Men's Fall/Winter 2018-19]

Jan 24, 2018

MARNI's Fall/Winter 2018-19 men's collection was unveiled at Milan Men's Fashion Week on January 13th. This marks the third season since Francesco Risso took over as designer, and the collection featured a dramatic, travel-themed collection.

Last Fall/Winter, his first runway appearance since becoming creative director, featured a mix of Marni's archive pieces for the digital age. The previous Spring/Summer 2018 collection expressed a West Coast vibe with a casual, "childish" brand taste. This season, the mood of the era, which is shifting towards a trend toward oversized silhouettes, is portrayed through the image of a hip, wandering man. The collection continues with looks that seem to have been acquired during global travels, including patchworked down jackets, mouton blankets, anorak raincoats, ikat pants, African batik-patterned suits, felted wool long gowns, duffle coats, and Ulster coats, nylon flight pants, and bib pants. The tight knit vests, a continuation of Spring/Summer 2018, create a signature Marni silhouette among the oversized pieces. The seasonal tying of these oversized pieces is punctuated by hand-drawn illustrations. Bold flocked prints of animals and furniture adorn check and mixed tweed suits and coats, while a large sloth appears on the white shirt underneath. The illustrations, by Frank Navin of the Chicago-based brothers' band Aluminum Group, combine Milanese and American 1960s culture in a modern way. Like last season's Magdalena Suarez, Francesco Risso's artist curation is a Milanese approach that evokes his experience at the Prada house.


Text: Tatsuya Noda
野田達哉
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