Under the theme "The Contemporary Wardrobe Through the Mirror of Savoir-Faire," Givenchy presented its first-ever solo Men's Ready-to-Wear show at Paris's École Militaire, showcasing the fusion of modern menswear with the House's artisanal ateliers.


For his Spring/Summer 2023 main collection, Creative Director Williams defined the quintessential garments and accessories that make up an authentic wardrobe, amplifying their appeal through the craftsmanship and technological possibilities of Parisian artisans. Reflecting his generation's approach to Givenchy's historic dress code, Williams incorporated subcultural elements through a free-flowing expression of "community dress," inspired by the men around him—artists, musicians, and designers—both in his personal life and in his work at Givenchy. Jamaican dancehall and reggae artist Alkaline, known for his radical looks and his use of enlarged eyelids, provided the music and influenced the show. Exploring deconstruction through the lens of haute couture, Williams sought to translate the "uniform" symbolizing his native American society through the sophisticated elegance of the house.


Black and grey blazers and coats showcase unconventional tailored silhouettes: voluminous yet relaxed. These pieces are paired with matching trousers ripped at the knee to reveal logo-embellished linings, evoking a schoolboy DIY take on the uniform. Blousons and cargo shorts in tan and beige leather are patchworked from undyed offcuts upcycled from the Maison's leather factory, then laminated for a durable silhouette. Classic mint green and black shell jackets are crafted from ultra-lightweight leather. A military surplus leather varsity jacket features all-over embroidery, echoing the tarot card tattoo on Williams' leg.


Camo motifs are evoked on blousons, tactical vests, and cargo pants crafted from digitally printed waterproof fabrics and muslin layered with laser-cut and hand-distressed Japanese denim jacquard featuring the 4G logo. Camouflage patterns also appear on workwear pieces, hand-sewn together from layers of white and printed nylon, then sanded and washed by hand. When worn, the white camouflage pattern on the chalk-overprinted ripstop nylon is enhanced. Similarly, the linings of shell jackets and military parkas, subdued by overdyeing, retain their original fluorescent colors. The front of gray and black denim pants with a reflective print retains the "pattern" of the back panel, which was created during the printing press.


In eyewear, the brand offers a new "G-Cut" design, featuring angular G-shaped rims and temples that encase the lenses. 3D-printed sunglasses are available in a color palette of shiny black, matte gray, shiny clear, gradient, and genuine natural wood. In accessories, the new G logo is attached to a portion of the chain on necklaces and bracelets in metallic silver, gold, white, and black enamel. Pearl necklaces and studded earrings are available in dark wood, shiny white enamel, mother-of-pearl, and crystal pave. G-locks are featured on mini earrings and large pendants crafted from crocodile-embossed leather. Chains are adorned with small objects, including a retractable comb, a checkers game, a dice set, and charms in the shapes of G-locks and horns.


Footwear focuses on the TK silhouette, characterized by its curved sole and ball-shaped heel. The "TK-MX Runner," featuring a mesh and synthetic leather upper, is available in white, black, silver and yellow, silver and green, and black and yellow. Givenchy's all-knit sneaker, the TK-360-MID, offers a new twist on the house's TK-360. It's taller than its predecessor and comes in a reverse edition with a monochrome colorway and cage pattern. A new rain boot in the same shape combines vulcanized rubber with armor detailing and a rubber-covered cork sole. It's available in gray, black, white, cream, and coral, as well as spray-painted reflective gray and white, and also includes a laced version.


Bags include an oversized tote bag, backpack, triangle bag, and Antigona crossbody bag, all incorporating the same savoir-faire as the garments. Using their unique craftsmanship, the brand creates bags from a patchwork of upcycled, laminated leather scraps in undyed shades and greys. The Pixel Camo bag features the same camouflage motif as the clothing, layering laser-cut, hand-distressed muslin over waterproof fabric. Ripstop leather bags are available in chalk, reflective charcoal, and molded rubber scuba, while lightweight nylon bags are available in the season's pastel color palette of coral, green, blue, and yellow.

"Menswear is, of course, where my interest in fashion began. In my work at Givenchy, my men's collection began with that same instinctive starting point.

This show is a reflection of the men around me—myself, my close friends, and the artists who inspire me—and a dialogue between time and culture that shapes how men dress every day—how new generations embrace and evolve past dress codes and fashion archetypes through their own progression. It's an exciting evolution, and it's why I decided to do a solo men's show for Givenchy."

Givenchy Creative Director / Matthew M. Williams