In addition to local editors and buyers, this season's Ukraine Fashion Week also saw the participation of international guests from around the world, including buyers from Barneys New York in the United States and editors from Vogue Italy and CR Fashionbook. When asked why they were visiting Kyiv for the first time, members of the press, including myself, all agreed that they had decided to participate this season in search of cutting-edge brands, such as Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia's Vetements and Russia's Gosha Rubchinskiy, whose designs were more vibrant than ever before. Many buyers told us that they felt department stores and select shops tended to all fall into the trap of offering similar selections, and that they wanted to add some punch to their offerings to liven things up.

While Eastern Europe, led by Russia, has traditionally been dominated by high-end brands, the market has grown in recent years, resulting in a sudden increase in contemporary brands. Brands by young designers, primarily millennials, are brightening up the Ukrainian fashion industry. According to a journalist I met while there who writes for Vogue Ukraine and Elle Ukraine, Ukrainian fashion is characterized by a strong feminine style with a girly element. This may be due to the country's cultural background as a leading ballet country and its traditional folk costumes. On the other hand, there are also strong traces of the country's history as a communist bloc, and there are brands with a polarizing focus on the Dark Ages. Both light and dark aspects may well match the mood of modern people living in difficult times.

YULIA YEFIMTCHUK

Yulia Yefimchuk, which launched as a unisex brand in 2014, continues to draw inspiration from Soviet-era workwear, as it did last season. With utility as its central theme, the collection features oversized, easy-to-move-in pieces with large pockets for enhanced functionality. The Russian text tattooed on the chest translates to "aesthetics" in Japanese. The collection has a dark and heavy atmosphere that keeps people away, but it has many fans who are drawn to its charm. It will be interesting to continue watching to see how Yulia Yefimchuk's aesthetic, which has been honed and influenced by history and culture, will change with the times.

Lake Studio

Lake Studio, created by the female design duo Anastasia Riabokon and Olesya Kononova, creates collections inspired by the natural world. Using high-quality silk fabrics and sherbet tones, they portray a soft, light, and relaxed image of the mature woman. This season, the focus was on the ocean and water, giving the collection pieces volume and silhouettes reminiscent of gentle waves. Prints of coral, the jewel of the sea, seemed to swim across the dresses, creating a gentle atmosphere.

Jean Gritsfeldt

Jean Gritsfeldt, a brand that advocates street luxury, offers both men's and women's wear. In the past, the brand has held shows in boxing rings and circus venues, earning praise for their high level of entertainment value. This season, models emerged from a DHL aircraft at Kyiv's Boryspil International Airport. Under the theme of "diversity," ordinary men and women of all ages strutted down the runway. The collection was diverse and inconsistent, ranging from evening dresses and tracksuits to dresses worn by Muslim women and looks resembling hijabs. Last year, Ukraine held its first LGBT parade, under the slogan "Understanding Diversity," showcasing the fierce enthusiasm of the country's young people to challenge the status quo.