Yuichi Hirose, the fourth-generation owner of Hirose Dyeing Factory, has been dyeing Edo Komon, a traditional Japanese culture, for over 90 years. This traditional craft, with roots in the samurai's kamishimo (formal formal attire), boasts 400 years of history. Hirose is working to spread Edo Komon, a traditional craft with roots in the samurai's kamishimo (formal formal attire), not only in Japan but around the world. He has also launched a scarf brand to pass it on to new generations. We took a sneak peek at the factory to find out what Edo Komon means to him. Founded in 1918, Hirose Dyeing Factory is located in Ochiai, Tokyo, an area depicted in ukiyo-e prints as the area where the Kanda River and Myoshojikawa River meet, attracting fireflies in their clean waters. This long-established dyeing company has been dyeing Edo Komon for four generations, carrying on the stencil dyeing tradition and providing exclusive services to dyeing kimonos for kabuki actors. First, we were shown the stencil dyeing area. A white bolt of fabric is stretched across a long, single slab of fir wood, and a stencil is placed on top. Color paste is then applied with a spatula. Hirose's eyes are so intent as he works, it feels as if they might pierce the fabric. The tension is so intense that even the viewer holds their breath. In the stencil-making room, the most important step in dyeing is performed: imprinting the patterns cut out of the stencils onto the fabric. The size of the cutouts varies depending on the design, and the amount of colored glue and the speed of the spatula are adjusted to match. This is truly the skill of an artisan. Because the stencils are small compared to the length of the cloth, the same process is repeated 40 to 50 times to dye one roll. To ensure even coloring, the dyeing of one roll is always completed in one day. It's a process that requires intense concentration. The best time to dye is in the morning, when the sun is shining brightly.

Next, we were shown to the stencil-making room. This room, approximately 3 tatami mats in size, houses over 4,000 stencils. Each stencil, made stronger by layering three sheets of washi paper coated with persimmon tannin, is individually carved with a delicate design. One stencil can be used to sew 30 to 50 pieces of fabric, but it cannot be used forever. When a stencil becomes unusable, it is carved into new washi paper to preserve the design. Because washi paper is susceptible to drying, humidity control in the stencil room is crucial. Apparently, in the past, apprentices would live in the room, checking the condition of the stencils by hand and sleeping there while also acting as guards to prevent theft. "There's a difference in boldness and energy between designs now and the past. In the past, when people were struggling to afford food, many designs exuded a sense of hunger and dynamism, like, 'I have to sell this bolt of fabric to make a living,'" says Hirose. "But these days, more designs emphasize a more delicate quality." Next to the stencil room is the shigokiba (glubing area). This is where the stencils are peeled from the boards after the glue has dried, and a base colored glue containing dye is applied to the entire fabric, a process known as shigoki-zome (glub dyeing). The color is applied evenly by passing the fabric through a roller, and sawdust is sprinkled evenly over the overlapping areas of the fabric until the base color glue dries to prevent the glue from sticking or the color from transferring. This room is located on the north side of the workshop because the air is less likely to dry there. Conversely, the aforementioned stencil room is located on the south side, where sunlight pours in, and the entire workshop has a logical layout for the dyeing process.

While other workshops have separate dyeing processes such as dyeing, steaming, washing, and drying, Hirose Dyeing Factory has all the necessary techniques and equipment to carry out the entire dyeing process, with six craftsmen working on separate tasks. The dyeing techniques, dyeing process, and workshop layout all reflect the meticulous attention to detail that has been cultivated over a long history.

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