The new Hermès, Nadège's effortless equestrian world [Women's 2015-16 Autumn/Winter Collection]

Mar 18, 2015

Hermès welcomed new artistic director Nadége Vanhee-Cybulski to its AW15-16 women's collection. She has incorporated the riding spirit that is the origin of the house into authentic, high-quality women's wear. The silhouettes are long and lean. Key colors include blue-black, red, yellow, ivory white, and black, with mostly one-tone coordination. Nadége's sensibility, combined with Hermès' materials and techniques, has led to an effortless new collection. The first look features a blue-black lamb leather blouson and corduroy pants. The quilted liner hangs from the blouson like a skirt. This quilting was inspired by saddle pads, which are placed between the saddle and the horse's body during horseback riding. Leather quilting was also used on outerwear in other looks.

Also noteworthy in the first look is the semicircular material on the front of the leather blouson, which at first glance appears to have a velvety sheen. It is a high-quality suede that feels meltingly soft against the skin. Nadège favors this material, using it in various pieces, such as a striped coat paired with cashmere and a turtleneck sweater paired with a knit.

The striped pattern of Hermès' horse blanket, "Rocabar," is also a signature detail this season. Its elements are incorporated throughout, from cape coats and bag straps to leather pants with striped panels. Of course, Hermès' iconic "carré" hasn't been forgotten. Silk sets featuring sangle (horse harness) and bandana patterns were featured.

Long coats reminiscent of equestrian wear and sporty quilted leather coats feature large pockets. Inspired by the shape of a saddle, this two-way design allows hands to be put in from the side. The jacket buttons are decorated with "clous de sel," the studs found on saddles.

The show ended with an evening style, unusual for Hermès. Rather than gaudy dresses, the collection featured chic ivory white and black cocktail wear that complemented everyday wear. Elegant pieces included a jacquard set featuring the "Bride de Gala" (saddlery) pattern, a beautifully textured mink top, and a clean ivory silk knit dress. The final three looks were adorned with Hermès' high-end "Haute Bijouterie" jewelry. This series, which includes a tiara, bracelet, and necklace, was also inspired by the "Bride de Gala" design.

A new bag, the "Octagon," was introduced. As its name suggests, it is octagonal and comes in three styles: clutch, shoulder bag, and handbag. The minimalist design, without any metal fastenings, will complement a variety of styles.
Hermès 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter Collection Show Video
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  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
  • Hermes 15-16 Autumn/Winter Collection
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