theSakaki's "Monkey" Exhibition [15-16 Autumn/Winter Men's]

Mar 28, 2015

The Sakaki held the "Shin Exhibition" showcasing their 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter collection. The word "shin" (meaning "monkey") doesn't refer to monkeys; designer Kotaro Sakaki himself "said" it. "It's superficial to label items as 'Japanese' based on their appearance or names. So I want to explain it myself," said designer Sakaki, beginning his presentation. This season's three new models include a reversible hunting coat made of water-repellent and wool fabric, and a packable mountain parka that folds like a clutch bag and seamlessly combines with buttons. Layering the parka over the coat and fastening the back neck, sides, and crotch creates a sporty look. The designer explained that they created the parka because "people don't want to carry an umbrella, even on rainy days." The mountain parka is three-layer waterproof and can be combined with the brand's iconic varsity jacket. The other is a bomber jacket, incorporating various sheep-related materials, including mouton, melton wool, and flannel, in honor of the 2015 zodiac sign of the sheep. It's a new design derived from a varsity jacket. Previously released items, such as imagi (living room wear), varsity jacket, and kung fu jacket, have been renamed Oni No InuMA-gi (On IMA-gi), Do-gi (doing wear), and Kentō-gi (Japanese-style clothing). While each item evokes a Japanese, Western, or Chinese aesthetic, the neck pattern remains the same. Sakaki says, "The image that can be attributed to fabrics and accessories is superficial," and he has created a jacket incorporating all three elements. The fabric is Hiroshima Bingo weave (Japanese), the buttons are decorative string fastenings (Chinese), and the shape is a tailored jacket (Western). The collar can be turned up for a tuxedo look. While the appearance remains the same, the double-breasted Chester coat's specifications have undergone significant changes. The trend in coats is for lightness and ease of wear, and double-face and bonded fabrics are popular, but they are difficult to produce. Sakaki pursued lightness and ease of construction.

First, he removed the lining from the body and finished the seam with piping. "These days, we spend a lot of time indoors, so I was concerned about the wrinkles in the lining that would show when I took off my coat," says Sakaki. He also made the outer and inner fabrics different thicknesses. This resulted in a collar design that naturally curls flat. He didn't even iron it. Tailored collars were originally developed from the stand-up collars of military uniforms, which had been folded down. Sakaki believes this in itself is superficial. "In winter, I like to wear the collar up," he says.

The suit jacket follows the same design. There are no shoulder pads, replaced with piping. The shoulder line is shifted back to ensure darts and rounded arms. He purposely left out wool interlining and other materials because it's "easy to wear."

A new wing collar has been introduced to the shirt. The fabric is 120-ply Oxford, a style that has been used since SS15. The shirt trunks have been lengthened to resemble steteko. Large pockets with fabric lining on the front and back prevent the garment from showing through.

A new design has also been added to the varsity jacket embroidery service. It features Sun Wukong from Journey to the West. In other words, it's the monkey.
編集部
  • The Sakaki's three new models for AW15-16. From left: Packable Mountain Parka, Hunting Coat, Bomber Jacket
  • Packable mountain parka made of 3-layer waterproof fabric
  • hunting coat
  • The hunting coat is reversible
  • A combination of a hunting coat and a mountain parka
  • A combination of a hunting coat and a mountain parka
  • A combination of a hunting coat and a mountain parka
  • Bomber jackets are made with a variety of sheep
  • The collar pattern is derived from a stadium jacket.
  • The Sakaki's standard stadium jacket is the Do-gi (active wear)
  • A tailored jacket that combines Japanese, Western and Chinese styles
  • The specifications of the Chester coat have changed significantly. The attached collar will also be announced.
  • Classic suit
  • shirt
  • Trunks made from shirting material
  • The new embroidery on the stadium jacket is Son Goku
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