Ever since we began to become aware of the ingredients and techniques that utilize the power of fermentation in our daily lives, the FASHION HEADLINE editorial team has become interested in this microscopic, almost invisible world of fermentation. In our special feature, "Fermentation Glasses," we'll be discussing the power of fermentation in a Q&A format with fermentation designer Hiraku Ogura, in a way that's easy even for beginners to understand.

In our first installment, we'll be looking at miso, an essential seasoning in Japanese cuisine. We'll be focusing on fermentation. Now, let's begin with a question from Hiraku, a fermentation newbie from our editorial team!

Q1: Why are so many Japanese seasonings, like miso, soy sauce, and vinegar, fermented?

Hiraku Ogura (hereinafter, Hiraku):
There are several possible reasons why fermented seasonings developed in Japan.

- The warm and humid climate means there are many types of fermentation bacteria.
- At the same time, there are many bacteria, so fermentation is necessary to prevent spoilage.
- The Japanese koji mold (Aspergillus oryzae), which creates the umami flavor unique to Japanese cuisine, is widespread.
- Because ingredients are limited, fermentation techniques are used to create variety in flavor and nutrition.

Example: Miso, soy sauce, sake, mirin, vinegar, natto, and more can be made using only rice, wheat, and soybeans grown in rice fields!

FASHION HEADLINE Editorial Department (hereinafter, FH):I see! So fermentation culture is closely related to Japan's location as an island nation, and the climate and culture of rice-growing Asia.

Hiraku:That's right! Japan is located within the fermentation culture sphere, which is characteristic of East Asia. East Asia stretches from Vietnam to Myanmar, Cambodia, southwest China, the Korean archipelago, and Taiwan. This region has a mild climate that is not quite tropical, with temperature differences between the four seasons, moderate humidity and abundant water resources.

Rice cultivation is the main industry, and there are molds (related to koji mold) that are suitable for fermentation, so a culture of fermented foods with strong umami flavors has developed.

FH:It certainly seems that some Asian seasonings are made and used in similar ways to Japanese seasonings.

Hiraku:Let me give you some examples. English:

■ Asian seasonings and alcoholic beverages similar to those in Japan

・ Fish sauce: Japanese shottsuru, Vietnamese nuoc mam
・ Natto: Types very similar to Japanese natto can be found in China's Yunnan province and Myanmar
・ Alcoholic beverages: Korean makgeolli, Chinese Shaoxing wine, and Japanese sake, all use mold as a starter

If I were to pick some characteristics within the fermentation culture area that spans East Asia (although I am still in the middle of my research), they would be:

・ Korean Peninsula: A spicy and stimulating fermentation culture born from severe temperature differences/ kimchi, gochujang, etc.
・ Southeast Asia: A culture of fermenting freshwater fish and other seafood, centered around the Mekong River/ fish sauce, salted fish, etc.
・ Southwest China, Taiwan: A fermentation culture very similar to that of Japan, such as doburoku and rice koji. Moreover, since it is combined with medicinal foods, there is a wide variety.

Japan:A fermentation culture with a strong umami and sweet flavor created by Aspergillus oryzae, which is rare on the continent.

And so on.

However, there is diversity depending on the region, so please use this as a reference only.

FH:It seems like you can make all kinds of discoveries by looking at a map from a fermentation perspective or visiting the region! I'm getting excited.

Q2: So, here's the original question: what is miso made from?

Hiraku:In Japan, miso is defined as a solid seasoning made from soybeans, koji, and salt.

With these three basic ingredients,

■Types of Miso

- Differences in the koji ingredients (rice, barley, beans, etc.)
- Differences in aging period (2 days for Saikyo miso to 3 years for Hatcho miso)
- Blending with other ingredients or different types of miso (blended miso, yuzu miso, etc.)

Variations can be made by these factors.

FH:So, the "Koshu miso" made in the miso-making workshop at Gomi Shoyu is a unique hybrid miso made by mixing rice koji and barley koji.

Hiraku:That's right. It falls into the category of "mixed miso," but while pre-made miso is usually mixed, mixing two types of koji, rice and barley, when brewing is unique nationwide. Yamanashi has a lot of sloping land, making it difficult to secure rice paddies, so they came up with the idea of mixing both rice and barley. The taste is also unique, combining the best of Tohoku's rich miso and Kyushu's savory miso.

FH:I can't wait until autumn to eat the miso we made ourselves this time. This time, we made the miso in April and let it age in barrels from summer through autumn.

Q3: What happens inside the miso barrels during the several months it takes for the miso to be completed?

Hiraku:The following events occur during the miso fermentation process.

■The miso fermentation process

1. First, the salt mixed with the ingredients blocks the growth of germs.
2. The enzymes in the koji convert the soy protein into umami and the starch into sugar.
3. The sugars produced by the koji become food, and lactic acid bacteria and yeast begin to multiply.
4. The lactic acid bacteria create the miso's distinctive sourness, while the yeast creates the aroma and depth of flavor.

*White miso and barley miso, which have a strong sweetness and umami flavor, stop fermenting before step 4 is complete.
*Red miso and Hatcho miso, which have a rich aroma and flavor, are fermented over a long period of time through step 4.

FH:There are so many different types of miso! In areas where fish is caught, sweet miso is preferred, as is the miso used in fish dishes, while in colder regions miso with a strong saltiness is preferred. I feel that fermentation is linked to the wisdom of local lifestyles.

There are several members of our editorial team who make miso. What are the benefits of making your own "homemade miso"?

Hiraku:In the past, miso was something that was made at home, to the point that there was a saying that "it's shameful to buy miso." In recent years, there has been a revival of the culture of young people enjoying homemade miso (I'm probably contributing a little to that).

I guess this is what I've felt after running homemade miso workshops for so long.

■What are the benefits of making your own miso?

- The taste of homemade miso is not adjusted like commercially available miso, so it has a wild deliciousness.
- Even when made under the same conditions, the taste changes depending on the maker and the time of year it is made.
- The taste changes as it matures (many commercially available miso are stopped from fermentation before shipping).
- You can experience the fascinating process of fermentation.
- It becomes a reason for the community to come together (by making miso together or exchanging miso).
- You get to use a lot of miso.
- Of all fermented foods, it is one of the least likely to fail.

And so on. Since making homemade miso is often a community activity that involves gathering together every season, it also seems to help build relationships.

FH:That's so true! Many couples and families participated in this workshop, and the atmosphere was very friendly. I couldn't help but smile as I absentmindedly kneaded the soybeans and koji.

So, we took a look at the familiar seasoning "miso" with fermentation designer Hiraku Ogura through "Fermentation Glasses"!

The next episode of "Fermentation Glasses" will be about the power of fermentation as it relates to "craft beer."